ouch! handshock

[Marc St Louis]

Symmetry in the outer limbs is important especially with D bows.  Without symmetry you can have a mass difference which can cause the limbs to come back to brace at different times.  This can cause a limb timing issue which will give you some severe handshock

[Dances with squirrels]

Timing is everything.

You can try everything mentioned, and they may help reduce it a little, but if your limbs aren't harmonized relative to your holds on bow and string, you'll have unnecessary handshock.

[son of massey]

Checking to see if it is the washer seems easy enough. Just swap it for a string sans washer. I would be nervous firing a bow with the washer wrapped into the string, maybe it is being paranoid but I would be worried about the metal edges cutting the string or at least putting a stress point in the line. I could imagine the washer may be doing any one of a few things that could be giving you the shocky sensation, but again I have never used the washer method so I am theorizing.

SOM

[dylanholderman]

looking better? i switched out the string for my old B50 tillering string and the handshock dropped tremendously still there but not nearly so bad now

[Badger]

  I like that tiller shape much better!

[simson]

  I like that tiller shape much better!

+1, as Steve said!

Are you fixed on the circular tiller? A more elliptical would drop the shock another step down.

[dylanholderman]

thanks guys

simson i'm not dead set on it, and dropping the weight a few more pounds would make it more usable for the people i know who are interested in a bow.
question though, is there a deference between whip tillered and elliptical or are they two words for the same thing.

[Knoll]

wow, big (in a good way) difference!

[Badger]

   A lot of times some of us will use the term whip tillered when we really don't mean whip tillered. We are making a point to get the outer limbs bending more. About the only time I would recommend a truely whip tillered bow is in the case of a long bow that is very light in draw weight, under 35# and maybe 70" long. Slightly whip tillered when using denser woods on lighter weight bows also.

[willie]

I am sometime confused by what the difference between elliptical and whip, too.

1. is the tiller of the bow in the opening post "whip"?

2. is the tiller shown six posts above better described as circular or elliptical?

3. what word best describes the tiller of this bow? (besides "sweet")

  http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,53856.0.html

[simson]

IMO
whip tillered: only outer limbs are bending, perhaps mids subtle, inner stiff.
ellipticall: all portions are bending, the outers increasing more

[dylanholderman]

IMO
whip tillered: only outer limbs are bending, perhaps mids subtle, inner stiff.
ellipticall: all portions are bending, the outers increasing more

thanks simson that is very clear 

[Badger]

  I think Simpson covered it pretty well.

[Marc St Louis]

I wouldn't shorten the bow to 66" for a 32" draw, even a Yew bow would be stressed at that length. 

I don't see any mention of draw weight here.  I do see that the outer limbs are still a bit stiff though.  They should bend slightly out to about 4" from the tips.  A lot of the bending is being done mid limb in the last picture

[dylanholderman]

Finally got this finished  around 40@30 inch draw 70in ntn
[/URL
[URL=http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/dylanholderman/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2015-10/D838C8B3-78BE-44FE-A6EF-5F5114E8640D.jpg.html]

Full draw is around 31" can't quite get the 32" it is tillered too
Here are the nocks I was talking about. Shout out to simson it was his HLD build along where I got the idea from I think I need to practice it a bit more though I had some gaps that needed filling 


Handle is hemp wrapped like my other honeysuckle bow but built up with cork first this time



Also a lot cleaner stick than the first one I posted