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[JRMakowski]

Ty guys for the advise I have found a local hardwood mill they carry maple hickory and few other hardwoods they said come in Tue to pick thru there stock as its a slow day for em, Thinking I will try to keep it simple this time for sure

[Drewster]

JR, as mentioned above, hickory will make a fine bow and is very forgiving.  Get enough for several bows and let it dry really well.  Hickory performs best when it's 6-8% MC.......that's dry......very dry.  If you're getting the lumber from a mill, it will likely be green.  Rough out your bow profile, chase a ring for the back and clamp it to a 2x6 to keep it from warping.  Clamping in some reflex is good too.  After a couple of weeks, you can put it in a hot car or attic space to dry it faster.  Good luck and enjoy.  Put your new found knowledge to good use.

[bubby]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
I like maple for board bows this will get you going and you can use all hand tools but all the deminsions are there you'll get it 😉

[E. Jensen]

I will say though that for a beginner its not a bad first go.  I've seen much worse.  And if it makes you feel any better at all, you've got what I call beginner's tiller.  As in, everyone has done it and we've all been there.  Nothing to feel bad about.

[Eric Krewson]

Did you use a tillering gizmo? It is hard to hinge a limb if you go slow with the gizmo.

[son of massey]

Does t ok? If it is a firstish try call that a win. And for what it is worth, there doesn't look to be a lot of set in the hinging areas in the unbraced profile, if anything it is recurved at around the same spot. If you touch up the inner limb regions and maybe a bit beyond the hinge it looks like you could round out the tiller a good deal without incurring much in the way of string follow. If your recurved sections are pretty much the only bending areas it may well take a good deal or wood removal to match those spots, but as long as no big damage has been done to that area evening it out will increase the safety level and give you a chance to work on tillering out the different limb sections. Worst case you give it to a nearby small child at the end of it.

SOM

[George Tsoukalas]

Fix that hinge in the lower limb! It will be good practice.
Mark a big X in pencil right on it on the belly.
With a scraper-like tool scrape above and below it leaving that area alone.
You can leave that bow strung when working that hinge. Take 10 or so short draw pulls and of no more than 10 or so inches.
Repeat until the hinge is gone.
There are a few stiff spots in the top limb. Fixing those will bring the tiller home.
For your first no need to reflex and recurve. Don't use power tools.
When removing wood go a little beyond the problem area to blend it in.
Don't draw anymore than it takes to expose a problem.
The best fix for a hinge is to not get one.
I'm not in a hurry when bowyering so once I string the stave I'm using a scraper-like tool.

My site may help.
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
Jawge