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Arrow pass designs

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Badger:
  Del, I didn't notice too much problem on ELbs or bows without reflex. James Remp brought a 48" straight bow to the shoot with a handle about 1" wide and an arrow rest attached to the side of the bow. They came out pretty clean. Spine seems to play a big part in it.

JackCrafty:
 8)  Very interesting, as always.

BowEd:
Steve...This is a very interesting subject here.I got to know an archer here who was a finish carpenter.Everything just so and exactly right.Very maticulus.Makes self bows and FG bows.Always experimenting.Changing designs etc.Very accomplished bowyer.He has shown me over the years to paper shoot tune arrows,reduction in fletching,arrow passes with zero deflection,and center shot handles etc.It's the difference between consistency and inconsistency,and everything has to be right.Form and release too.All we want to see is the nock flying like a dart away from us.So I can mostly follow what your talking about here.A person has to have a pitbull attitude to get things right.....lol.Some bows seems like they just won't shoot right no matter what the arrow....lol.
My handles are nothing to look at really by the novice.Your gonna laugh here but I shoot off my knuckle with a centershot or close to strike plate but the arrow rides on a very slightly raised area[usually bone or horn inlaid 11/32" circle] not more than 1/16" wide for consistent nocking.No deflection that I can feel or see when things are right.
Distance shooting reveals proper arrow spine.Shortest distance to each point....lol.Gary the carpenter mostly shoots carbides so he cheats....lol.Very informative thread here and thanks.

Badger:
  Beadman, where I seem to run into problems is with the very light arrows, they straighten out pretty quickly but the very brief time period in which they are not straight is when they loose their speed. If we can see the arrow we know it was not a good shot no matter how true it is flying. The arrows you can't see are the ones that came out right. I like the paper tuning, but it has to be done at very close ranges for flight shooting. I am guessing inside of 10 feet or so.

BowEd:
I see.Man!!!!.Yep the ones you can't see are right.All of the energy has to go in a direct straight line.Your taking it to a farther degree which I suppose is needed for proper flight shooting.We paper shoot under 5 yards.Just set up a 6' ladder with some butcher paper across between the steps.Kind of get a kick out of 3D shooting with friends arrows with no fletching hitting their mark.Pretty cool really.But that means if I miss the arrow goes in the toolies under leaves never to be found again....lol.Loss of a nice arrow.Probably an hour and a half's worth of work thrown away....lol.
Every bow of yours would probably need a different set of arrows I imagine.I'm sure you can tell I know not too much about taking it to that degree.Wish I had the final solution for you but I think maybe every case is different too yet.Like I read in one statement here a camera to record what is not seen would be the solution I think.Kind of an ace in the hole when you come to the line to shoot an arrow.
Ed

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