Rawhide prep

[Blayne]

I have a bunch of rawhide made by a friend from a steer that I raised. I hope to use this hide to back a bow to give to another friend(probably a hickory board bow)

Question is: how do I dry the hide flat, without it curling? I feel like I need to sand down the hide to thin it, as it is about an 1/8" thick, maybe more. So that is why I need to dry it flat. I have it cut into 2"wide strips, about 3' long, and they are in the freezer. I feel like it would be best to sand it down on the flesh side, not the hair side, so glueing it down first wouldn't be the best. Any thoughts would be appreciated 

Thanks Blayne.

[Pat B]

On big hides like from a steer you should make a rack and lace the hide to it to let it dry flat. There might be something in the Primitive Skills section and I know Pappy has posted pics of the racks he uses to scrape deer hides.

[bradsmith2010]

probably easier to dry flat in larger pieces,,, just nail it down best you can,,,always keep in mind it can be sanded on the bow as well,,,it is a pretty forgiving medium,,

[PEARL DRUMS]

I prefer to sand the inside glue surface and keep the hair side smooth as butta'. You can sand either side before or after glue up, your call there. Steer hide will be very, very thick, too thick. Cut 2 x 36 strips, clamp each end down and use a sanding block to knock the thickness down. Be sure the bench/table surface underneath is perfect clean and flat. The slightest bump of dried glue will create a hole in seconds. I prefer to get my rawhide very thin. Its dead weight no matter how you stir it. I try to eliminate as much as I can, but still afford the protection I require.

[Fred Arnold]

probably easier to dry flat in larger pieces,,, just nail it down best you can,,,always keep in mind it can be sanded on the bow as well,,,it is a pretty forgiving medium,,

Does it matter whether you sand the inside vs outside of the hide?

[PEARL DRUMS]

No, but the hair side is already baby azz smooth Fred. I like to leave it that way and sand inside before glue up, but its just visual preference.

[Pat B]

The hair side is the slicker side and the inside more textured. The strength of the hide is in this slick side where the fibers are unbroken. It may not matter but I prefer to have that slick side out.

[Fred Arnold]

Thanks, that's the way I've done it but was wondering if it mattered. It would be easier to sand once it was already on the bow. The last time I laid it out and sanded the bottom side before even cutting it into strips and it made it easier than fumbling with the narrow strips.

[Blayne]

Thanks guys. I have some extra pieces around, maybe I will experiment with glueing and sanding some on a scrap. I may end up glueing it hair side down and sanding the flesh side smooth. I am hoping the color of the hide will come through, and I think it will.

[PEARL DRUMS]

You cant really sand rawhide glass smooth, like wood. It will keep pilling up ever so slightly. You could slop down a few coats of finish, then dust with light sand paper between the next 3-4 coats. It would probably smooth right out. I made a rawhide backed elm bow that was glued on hair side down. I left it as is on the outside, almost like low suede. It has a cool feel and 3D look to it.

[paulsemp]

I think I know which one you're talking about. If its the one that's hanging up on my rack finished turned out great on that

[Pappy]

I always glue it down like it was on the critter. Sand if needed after then a coat or 2 of sealer and sand it smooth, I only use deer hide now and usually do at least a couple of young ones each year just for that reason , no thinning needed. Pappy