Floor tillering

[DC]

I just started tillering a Saskatoon bow. I floor tillered until it started to move and then put on the long string and put it on the tree. I pulled until the scale started to move and then one more inch. The scale went to 30#. 30# per in works out to 810# at my draw length. Obviously I should have taken more off when floor tillering. Now I can go back to floor tillering or I can keep going on the long string(it's a tight long string). Either way it's test it and remove wood. I could risk it and try to take 1/8" off on the bandsaw but I'm a coward. So it's the farriers rasp. What is the difference between floor tillering and tree tillering. I figure that using the tree the bow is out in front where I can see it and I can accurately follow the weight. Why floor tiller?

[Danzn Bar]

Never worked with Saskatoon ...............I don't think    ...... is it the same a shad tree or service berry or am I all screwed up on my tree ID's..........
DBar

[PEARL DRUMS]

I floor tiller with my tips left square at say 5/8", or so. That way I don't worry about flexing and grinding them into a piece of carpet as I floor tiller. In order for me to use a tree as early you do/did, I'd have to somehow shape those tips down in a way I can get a string on them. I don't want to do that so early in my process. So, I floor tiller to about 10-15# heavy, add overlays and/or mostly shape the tips and add grooves, Then brace it low and tweak it from there. 

[DC]

Saskatoon is Service Berry or darn close to it.
Thanks PD At least that's a logical reason although if I wasn't going to floor tiller I could shape the tips without worrying about grinding them into the ground. Just for the record I do floor tiller a bit but I always seem to chicken out. I figure I'm going to be rasping off the wood anyway, what does it matter how I decide how much to take off.

[wizardgoat]

I'm big on floor tillering. If you do it right it's a much more accurate look on how your limbs are bending. I do a heavy floor tiller till it looks like the limb is bending enough to be braced. 
I used to use the long string, it's how I was taught.

[DC]

I guess it will take a while to get my arms calibrated.

[JonW]

If you can develope a good eye for floor tillering you can skip the long string. I personally floor tiller right up till brace. Not saying you must just saying thats how I do it. I also think it CAN prevent you from coming in too light. Floor tillering is and can be very usefull.

[Selfbowman]

I floor tiller with my tips left square at say 5/8", or so. That way I don't worry about flexing and grinding them into a piece of carpet as I floor tiller. In order for me to use a tree as early you do/did, I'd have to somehow shape those tips down in a way I can get a string on them. I don't want to do that so early in my process. So, I floor tiller to about 10-15# heavy, add overlays and/or mostly shape the tips and add grooves, Then brace it low and tweak it from there.

[Selfbowman]

I floor tiller with my tips left square at say 5/8", or so. That way I don't worry about flexing and grinding them into a piece of carpet as I floor tiller. In order for me to use a tree as early you do/did, I'd have to somehow shape those tips down in a way I can get a string on them. I don't want to do that so early in my process. So, I floor tiller to about 10-15# heavy, add overlays and/or mostly shape the tips and add grooves, Then brace it low and tweak it from there.

Pearl when did you sneak over to my neighbors and look over the fence and watch me build a bow. That's how I do it. Finish the back of the bow and work my way to the bellys center. You been watching me.     Arvin

[PatM]

Never worked with Saskatoon ...............I don't think    ...... is it the same a shad tree or service berry or am I all screwed up on my tree ID's..........
DBar

Saskatoon is one of the many varieties of Serviceberry. ttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amelanchier

[familyfriendlyname]

I just started tillering a Saskatoon bow. I floor tillered until it started to move and then put on the long string and put it on the tree. I pulled until the scale started to move and then one more inch. The scale went to 30#. 30# per in works out to 810# at my draw length. Obviously I should have taken more off when floor tillering. Now I can go back to floor tillering or I can keep going on the long string(it's a tight long string). Either way it's test it and remove wood. I could risk it and try to take 1/8" off on the bandsaw but I'm a coward. So it's the farriers rasp. What is the difference between floor tillering and tree tillering. I figure that using the tree the bow is out in front where I can see it and I can accurately follow the weight. Why floor tiller?

Wow, do you work out or something? You sound kinda strong

[DC]

You'll notice I said I only pulled it an inch

[Pat B]

I floor tiller until I get about 4" of tip movement and both limbs seem to be bending evenly and about the same weight(resistance). From there I go to a long string and make corrections accordingly, then to first low brace. The sooner this is all done the better for me. This is where I check weight.

[Pappy]

I do about like Pat as far as floor tiller, until all is moving even then long string,[tight long string] I use a tiller stick until it is ready for low brace then to the tree. 
 Pappy

[Del the cat]

All down to personal preference.
I rough out and straight to long sting for a first look see.
I do very little floor tillering as such but I s'pose I'll flex it see if I'm in the right ball park, but I don't look at tiller.
Del