Bow width/taper

[Pat B]

A pyramid bow tapers from the fades to the tips, no matter the width; it is pyramidal shape. A semi-pyramid has some parallel limb(whether in be 6", 8", to mid limb) but then tapers to the tips. An overbuilt bow has parallel limbs with a small amount of taper at the tips. All are good bow designs if executed properly, all should have about the same results if tillered properly and the more overbuilt the more durable the design is...if tillered properly.

[DC]

Follow up question. How does the Eiffel Tower bow fit into this? Is it kind of a Molle/pyramid cross?

[bradsmith2010]

I am better at making a parallel bow,, and I like the design when making a heavy bow or have wood with issues,,, I am sure a pyramid can work great, but if you are starting with a narrow piece of wood, and need a little more weight  ,, the parallel design seems to make more since to me,,     I think the parallel design might be a bit more versatile ,,???

[Selfbowman]

I must be realy weird I incorporate both. Not a true taper or a true parallel . Must be greedy and want the best of both worlds. I do get set though. Arvin

[LittleBen]

I tend to keep mine relatively wide if not full width out to mid limb, at least to start. I do this so I have a lot to play with in terms of tip alignment, and also so that I have enough stability in the early stages of tillering.

I build a fair number of mine with 3-4" reflex and I find its just easier if I narrow as I'm tillering and the limbs are taking a bit of set as opposed to doing all the width taper beforehand.

I typicslly find I regret not narrowing more than I did by the time I'm slapping finish onto a bow, but I also rarely find myself with insufficient limb stability.

[Pappy]

I do both, on good straight grain wood I do a straight tapper from fads to tip most of the time. On more character wood generally parallel 10 or 12 inches, sometimes to mid limb then straight tapper to the tips. Both work well as far as I have seen.
  Pappy

[bow101]

I tend to keep mine relatively wide if not full width out to mid limb, at least to start. I do this so I have a lot to play with in terms of tip alignment, and also so that I have enough stability in the early stages of tillering.

I build a fair number of mine with 3-4" reflex and I find its just easier if I narrow as I'm tillering and the limbs are taking a bit of set as opposed to doing all the width taper beforehand.

I typicslly find I regret not narrowing more than I did by the time I'm slapping finish onto a bow, but I also rarely find myself with insufficient limb stability.

I basically do it the same way.  I dont want to over taper beforehand.  One of my best shooting bows is way over stressed and has over 2" of set but she shoots well.  One thing is for certain it will never break.