Advise please

[DC]

Yes. it's OS. It's pretty straight though. When I string the bow I make sure the loop and bowyers knot are centered. It's the bottom limb(bowyers knot end) that's giving me grief. I don't like the look of string bridges so I won't go that route. If i have to I'll take some recurve out.

[PatM]

Lose the knot. They tend to allow the string to twist off to one side.

[Tree_Ninja]

I made a little diagram. It looks a little, obscene..

Anyhow I over -emphasized the difference in the groove distance to show how the forces would work. It might not be your issue at all though.

[DC]

I don't have side nocks, just temp tips with back nocks.

I figured the knot would be a bit of an issue so I take extra care to make sure it's centered. I have grooved the tips from tip to string contact point so it's not to hard to center. I don't have a stockpile of strings with loops at both ends and I'm not settled on brace height yet so I'm kind of stuck with the knot. The one string I have with double loops gives me a brace height of about 7 1/2".

Right now I'm doing a few chores for winter.

[PatM]

You need side nocks in order to get the string into the belly groove of the recurved portion. How is the loop riding from the back nock onto the belly?

[bow101]

I agree with PatM side nocks are a good thing.  and deep grooves in the back without compromising strength.

[DC]

I don't like cutting side nocks until I'm closer to finishing but I'll give it a try.

[bow101]

I never have piked a bow.  I feel like it is sacrificial and kind of dangerous.  But thats me.  Not sure if your outer 1/3 of the limb is bending or not.  If not get it bending.

[PatM]

I don't like cutting side nocks until I'm closer to finishing but I'll give it a try.

Why not? Bridges are also a help. You may need to separate your needs and wants.

[DC]

OK I cut side nocks on the offending limb. It didn't fix it but I do feel more confidant that it's on center. I shone a laser down the string and it looked like the string had a bit of a bend where it left the bow. One more heat tweak and now it seems good. It doesn't throw the string so I can at least continue tillering. I've got about 7-8 inches to go. As long as the alignment stays I should get that done tonight.

Bow101- I don't think that piking this made a lot of difference except in the string stability. The string still lifts of at the same draw so up to there nothing changes. After lift off the bow is shorter so it's harder to pull but since I haven't tillered that part yet it's kind of a non-issue. It's different than it would have been but it may have been too unstable to shoot.

Pat- I like to cut the whole nock at once so it all lines up nice. It just seems easier to me. Less chance for something to go west. I don't know why I dislike bridges so much, they're fine on horn bows. I guess if the design of a bow was deliberately such that there was no way the string would stay on without them I could do it. This was supposed to be a simple R/D bow. I started out with way to much D and when I took some of that out I had to much R. I know now that I want to keep the deflex down to 1 1/2 to maybe 2".

Thanks everyone that helped. I learned a few things on this one and that's what it's all about

[PatM]

Well it's not a D/R  it's a deflex recurve. A difference that matters in the big picture.

[DC]

True. I actually just figured that out the other day and it hasn't quite locked in yet. I thought anything that went back and then forward was an R/D. I was looking at some pictures and the light went on.