Help with building a trestle table

[Stringman]

I have the table top mostly completed.



Next phase is to build the legs and make sure they attach solidly to the top and provide adequate support. I'm using this internet picture as inspiration on how I want it to look when completed.



My question to all the wood workers out there is what's the best way to attach the legs to the top and make it stable?

[Wolf Watcher]

I have made a lot of tables with different kind of legs.  What has worked for me, because the table tops are fairly thick, I route out a pocket where I want the legs to attach and build a form fitting insert piece usually out of good grade plywood that fits the pocket.  I then glue and screw the insert piece to the leg.  The insert piece is put in place and glued and screwed to the table top.  I don't know it this is understandable or not.  I don't know how to send pictures on this site, but can send pictures via email.  I have made several heavy coffee tables out of large burls that have three legs that set in at an angle.  This route and insert method works very well.  The leg attachment is underneath and even with the bottom of the table top so nothing shows and is very stable.  Joe

[RBLusthaus]

2 cleats will span the underside of the table top - widthwise - they will be attached to or socket around and form the upper portions of both legs.  The attachment of these cleats to the underside of the top must be done so that the top is free to move with the humidity.  One would usually attach them with screws thru much enlarged holes in the cleat, countersunk to match a washer, so that as the top moves, the screw and washer are free to move with it side to side inside the countersunk area, but the screw and washer keep the cleat tight to the top.   Special enlarged and elongated washers are sold by Lee Valley for this purpose, but I have not used them.  Regular 1/4 inch washers will work just as well, if you take the time to match your screws, washers and counter sink sizes.  Making too large a hole or enlongated a hole is not a problem; too small of one is -  resulting in either the bowing of the table top or the cracking of the cleats making for a wobbly top to leg connection.     

I hope that is clear.  Pictures are worth a thousand words - - I just don't have any. 

Russ

[Stringman]

Understood both of them and see how that would make a solid table. Is there a way to do that without screws and still be solid? I want to be able to disassemble the table to use at Rendevoux events and demonstrations.

[bubby]

Scott we have some old tables just like that at the library. If you want i can send some pics from the undercarriage

[Stringman]

Yep, that might help. Thanks Bub!

[Aaron H]

Bubby- Would you mind posting those pictures.  This has me intrigued

[RBLusthaus]

yes, you could make it in a knock down fashion.  The under cleat, attached as I suggest above, stays the same and they are permanent.  The top of the leg will be a tenon, which fits into a mortice in the cleat, which mortice and tenon are then locked together with a "drawbored" cross dowel.  The cross dowels should go all the way thru the far side, no glue, so they can be removed for dis-assembly.  Kinda like the cross pin on a trailer hitch.  What are those pins called? 

If you go this route, depending on the size and weight of the top, I think you may need the top of the leg to contact (M&T) the under cleat in more than a single center location -  I would think two spots closer to the edges of the table would provide more stability.  You must design the leg tops to match the cleat unders.

[Stringman]

So, per your suggestion there should be 2 legs, or at least one wider leg for each end... I'm seeing the trade off and this is the conundrum I was having in dreaming up this build in my mind. Keep it simple, but not on the alter of solid construction.

Good brainstorming goin on here, keep em coming!

[Stoker]

I went with cleats on the ones I build years ago... RBlusthaus does bring a good idea
Thanks Leroy

[bubby]

Scott I'll crawl under them tables and get the pics up tomorrow

[Stringman]

Thanks for all the help! After much thought, fitting, shaping and sanding, this is what I came up with.






God Bless!

[Danzn Bar]

Absolutely beautiful Scott,
What types of wood did you use? 
DBar

[osage outlaw]

Great work Scott.  That should last a hundred years or more. 

[Stringman]

I started with a 12' plank of rough sawn hickory. I cut strips of reclaimed redwood for the accent and the legs are made of regular pine lumber.