Power lam questions

[Blaflair2]

I use tb3. I think it says he uses smooth on

[bowmo]

All good lam builders know powerlams are where it's at. I make 16-18" long and like others said they allow you to add more deflex, use a thinner core, keep your handle strong even if it works a little, and they look good. I only use smooth on in my lam bows.

[Aaron H]

Ok, I did some research and for those of you who are interested it is Smooth On EA-40.  It sells for $35 for a 2 pint set. It has gotten great reviews

Or Unibond 800, which sells for $16 for a quart.

Both companies claim they are excellent for laminate bow makers

[bowmo]

Smooth on is bullet proof. Those two little pints will last you for seeeeveral bows and it's what most professional fiberglass lam builders use.

[Aaron H]

Yea, from the reviews I read, seems people like the smooth on better

[GB]

I've used Unibond and Smooth On to glue up wood lam bows, and they both produce great results.  Smooth On seems to have a little slipperier texture but that's the only difference I've noticed.  I tape the lams down either way, so it's not an issue.

[Onebowonder]

I've never used the Smooth-On (...'cause I'm cheap!) but I can report that both Unibond 800 and TB3 work well.  Unibond 800 is certainly superior to the TB3, ...but again TB3 is much cheaper and more readily available! 


OneBow

[Pat B]

Urac was considered the best wood/wood glue. I think it was used to make wood laminated airplane propellers. Unibond is supposed to be as good. If you have a glue failure using Unibond, Smooth-on or TBIII it is because you didn't do something right. Read and follow the directions with any of these glues and you shouldn't have a glue failure. I've not used Smooth-on but I have used the others and never had a glue failure.

[Badger]

  I use the smooth on if I am using a power lam. I use the tightbond for simple backed d/r bows. When I am backing with tighbond I rub the glue into the wood with my fingers, especially with ipe and some of the tropicals.

[Will H]

I've used urac for years on splices so naturally I decided to use Unibond 800 recently as I've started making laminated bows. I like it as much as urac no doubt. It seems to have a great shelf life and it's easy to mix by weight. Also it is light colored so if you do have a little glue line showing its not as noticeable. But most of all it doesn't require a hotbox. So for someone just testing the water with lam bows it might be the best option.

[LittleBen]

I have used TBIII, and smooth-on, both with good results.

Never had a delamination with either.

I don't recommend TBIII for tri-lam glue ups because the glue is water based and it adds ALOT of moisture to the wood. If you do use TBIII to glue up a tri-lam, treat it like a fresh cut stave and let it dry out for a month or two. It may seem extreme but go and weight your blank every day after glue up and see how long it takes to stabilize. It will shock you. Anything recently glued up with that much TBIII is basically dripping wet.
For this reason I try to limit my use of this glue.

Smooth-on is like liquid gold in bow building. It has long working time, there's no rushing. It doesn't smell too much (it's not roses, but you don't need to be outdoors or anything). The glue is also pretty forgiving of surface prep I find. I have more than one bow where the lams essentially got zero surface prep after being cut on a table saw or jointer with no problems. And let me be clear, you do not need to heat cure it. It cures faster with heat, and maybe stronger, but it just is not necessary in the world of wooden bows. If it's hot out I'll put my glue up in the sun, and that speeds things up a lot, but I've also just let it cure on the form for 24hrs at room temp, maybe 48hra for safety sake.

[DC]

I just tried to google Smooth-on, is it the  "EpoxAmiteŽ 100" that you use?

[bubby]

Ea-40 smooth on epoxy