question about cutting arrow shelf in bow

[Predictable]

im drawing dimensions onto a board right now and my last 2 board bows i've made the arrow shelf about an inch about center (pic below, the "leather" grip is crappy).





is there any benefit to having an arrow shelf that allows the arrow to be shot from the exact center of the bow?

is there a significant benefit to having a center shot arrow (as in it shoots from the center vertical axis of the bow)?

[make-n-break]

I can't imagine there would be any significant benefit to shooting centered on the vertical axis vs one inch above. Youd have to tiller accordingly to compensate for the shorter lower limb. Biggest difference is in the horizontal axis because of paradox. A horizontal center shot can shoot a wider variety of spines without too much fuss. I personally wouldn't attempt a horizontally center shot board. There are bowyers out there making vertical axis center shots all the time by making the lower limb 1-2" shorter. Some folks swear by those shorter lower limbs.

[huisme]

I make my passes about one inch above center and give my bows a positive tiller to compensate. If I went to the center I'd just give the bow a more positive tiller than usual. I establish the tiller by feel rather than measuring string height at different parts of my usually character filled limbs; when it feels right, it's right.

[bow101]

I beg to differ about center shot bows, more accurate hands down.

[Pat B]

I think Predictable is talking about making the bow center shot and not putting the arrow shelf at the center of the bow's length. In my opinion I think cut in shelves and center shot board bows are more prone to failure because of grain violations and adding a weak point(cut in shelf) to the bow where the stresses are the strongest. I know it can and has been done but I don't think it is smart, especially for someone learning the craft.
 An arrow shelf isn't the only way to have a consistent arrow pass and arrows that are properly spined for your bow and your way of shooting can be a very accurate if you do your part. Your consistency with form, your release and your concentration are as critical to accuracy and any other component.

[Predictable]

I think Predictable is talking about making the bow center shot and not putting the arrow shelf at the center of the bow's length. In my opinion I think cut in shelves and center shot board bows are more prone to failure because of grain violations and adding a weak point(cut in shelf) to the bow where the stresses are the strongest. I know it can and has been done but I don't think it is smart, especially for someone learning the craft.
 An arrow shelf isn't the only way to have a consistent arrow pass and arrows that are properly spined for your bow and your way of shooting can be a very accurate if you do your part. Your consistency with form, your release and your concentration are as critical to accuracy and any other component.

Thanks for the response. I guess I'll stick to what I've been doing and look towards improving form.

[mikekeswick]

The real problem with centershot bows shooting wood arrows is that once you get to around a 50# bow you will need 65# + spined arrows....sure you can get them but more spine means more weight in the arrow / or light points. High spined wooden arrows are hard to get consistently and lighter points make arrows less accurate.
After shooting selfbows/no shelf/wooden arrows for a good few years my best ever score at a 40 target 3d course is 676 points, with a centershot glass bow and carbon arrows my best is 698.
To me that's not hands down more accurate. It's a bit better.
As also mentioned you are putting a large bow breaking weak spot right at the most highly strained part of your bow. To make true centershot bows and have no chance of it exploding you need to do some serious reinforcement which pretty much precludes a selfbow. Lam bows - no problem because you can design it in.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I love to get as close to center as I can, and cut shelves in. Nearly all my personal bows are made this way. I use 50-55 parallel arrows for all my bows from about 45# up to about 55#. Same 29" arrow with a 125 gr upfront. 

The bow in the center has been shot thousands of times. The bow on the right is just a few months old, the yew on the left has been shot near a 1000 times. Just food for thought.

[Pat B]

Note how Pearlie has rounded all the edges and all around the cut in shelf. Smooth, flowing lines really makes the difference. Also note that all three bows are from staves and not board bows. Not that cut in shelves can't be done with boards but there is less of a chance of grain violation with staves over boards.

[make-n-break]

There's a hands-down advantage to shooting center shot on the HORIZONTAL axis (cutting the shelf deep enough to line the shaft up with the string) but some of us must be misunderstanding his question. He was asking about the VERTICAL axis, which to me means he's asking if putting his arrow shelf centered on the bow (say 34" from one tip and 34" from the other) has any significant advantage over being 1" above center (35" from the bottom limb and 33" from the top for example). Would be good if predictable could clarify a little.

[Pat B]

I don't know if there is an advantage or not. I see no advantage to symmetrical vs. asymmetrical bow design over personal preference.
 Still, I think the shooter's consistence is more critical than any thing else. Even with a crappy bow, a good shooter is still a good shooter.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I agree with Pat, boards aren't always a good choice to cut shelves in. The depth of the handle at the shelf is key. If there isn't enough, add more. I like no less than 1 3/8". Also, notice on the bow to the right it has a slight bump out opposite the shelf, that adds width while still allowing me to cut towards center.