Author Topic: Flipping tips? (Read 9548 times)

clewis · « **on:** May 15, 2015, 10:36:36 am »

Hi,

I have a question about flipping tips or adding some curves. Should I steam, boil or use dry heat, the stave has been reduced and is ready to go to the form. My only concern is a splinter lifting or cracking from dry heat. The stave I have in mind is white wood HHB.

Clewis

osage outlaw · « **Reply #1 on:** May 15, 2015, 11:40:41 am »

I've tried flipping tips with dry heat on HHB twice and cracked them each time. I'm using steam on my next attempt. That's just my experience with it. I know other guys that use it more often have been able to flip the tips with dry heat.

clewis · « **Reply #2 on:** May 15, 2015, 12:00:35 pm »

Ive had the same problem with dry heat, cracked width wise. I think I will try steam instead, any experience with steam bending white wood? I've got four well seasoned HHB staves with two being roughed out and about 30 fresh cut. Live for excess as some say...

Blaflair2 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 15, 2015, 12:50:01 pm »

Grease it, steam it for @40 mins and bend it

huisme · « **Reply #4 on:** May 15, 2015, 01:49:06 pm »

For a mild flip I use dry heat and a very smooth form, no sharp increases or decreases in movement per inch. If I'm putting in anything resembling a recurve I switch to steam.

PatM · « **Reply #5 on:** May 15, 2015, 02:09:43 pm »

Soaking and boiling is the best option I think.

bow101 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 15, 2015, 02:16:12 pm »

Black Locust and maple bend easily with dry heat.

aggressive bending will create cracks and splits either way.

clewis · « **Reply #7 on:** May 15, 2015, 02:30:04 pm »

Quote from: bow101 on May 15, 2015, 02:16:12 pm

Black Locust and maple bend easily with dry heat. aggressive bending will create cracks and splits either way.

From many of the recurves ive seen on this site, many appear to me to be aggressive. How do they do it? Progressive bending or in one shot? Hmmm...
I like the idea of soaking and boiling, seems safer.

bow101 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 15, 2015, 02:39:53 pm »

Quote from: clewis on May 15, 2015, 02:30:04 pm

Quote from: bow101 on May 15, 2015, 02:16:12 pm
Black Locust and maple bend easily with dry heat. aggressive bending will create cracks and splits either way.
From many of the recurves ive seen on this site, many appear to me to be aggressive. How do they do it? Progressive bending or in one shot? Hmmm...
I like the idea of soaking and boiling, seems safer.

Yes some guys do it, but most have more experience than me. I tread lightly using heat is all I'm saying. I guess you do not know unless you try. Playing it safe may only get you limited results. I have built a few different types of bows and its always a learning experience and mistakes are made along the way but hey the challenge is there why not try it.

huisme · « **Reply #9 on:** May 15, 2015, 02:48:29 pm »

I've also found that getting an even bend near the weight you want helps. Even thin ringed locust seems to recurve better with the taper as opposed to with one ring across the belly- or at least I've had more success that way, but I've only made a handful of recurves.

bubby · « **Reply #10 on:** May 15, 2015, 04:36:41 pm »

I boil/soak/steam everything but osage and even steam osage for a tight static, i tried that plastic tube and it works pretty darn good

JoJoDapyro · « **Reply #11 on:** May 15, 2015, 08:52:56 pm »

I have steamed Black Locust in a home made steamer, and steamed red oak by wrapping it with a wet rag and hitting it with the heat gun. Both worked. A smooth form is a must.

fiddler49 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 16, 2015, 05:43:49 am »

My best results are with a good heat gun and a bending jig. The jig is just a 3 foot long 2 x 6 with a short piece of 2 x 4 screwed across the top with a one inch gap between a 5 inch hole saw also screwed on. I place tip of bow between wood block and hole saw and push a wedge in to fill the gap and hold the bow in place. I heat both sides of bow while carefully bending. You can feel the wood give as it gets hotter. Start at the wider part of your bend first and heat back towards the tips. If you get the wood too hot it will crack across the belly and quickly fail completely. I takes about a half hour per tip to get 4 inches of reflex but once it's in it doesn't come out and you can shoot the bow right after it cools.