Author Topic: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along  (Read 4416 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« on: May 07, 2015, 12:47:48 am »
Here's the updated version. I've made the V grooved rail into the front of a fletching tool box 36" x 7.5" x 3.5"
with 3/4" poplar from Lowe's. The bottom extends 2" on either end like a flange for clamping to table. The rubber tired wheel is made from wood and an O-ring with 2 brass washers and a 1/4" wood axle. The wheel is 1/8 th" thick and about 3/4" wide fit into a slot on the 1/2" oak dowel. The wood wheel started out bigger so I put a 1/4" bolt threw the center and chucked it up in my drill and sanded the dia. Poor mans lathe!!! down to around 5/8", then
put a small triangle file to the center for a groove, then widened it with a small round file that would fit the 1/8"
O-ring tire. Then thinned the sides till I got it to 1/8" thick. In hind sight it would have been easier to make a bigger wheel if I used a bigger dowel like 3/4". I think the wood rim could be wrapped with waxed linen thread
instead of O-ring for a more trad look. I found that the mallet weight is not needed and Iv'e cut off the long
front guide so front of the box doesn't need to hang over edge of table. The body of the fletching tool is 8.5"
long x 3/4" thick and 2 3/4" wide poplar. The side guides are 3.5"  wide x 1/2" thick poplar. I put an adjustable arrow stop that squeezes rail with 1/4" bolt and wing nut. I put a floating point stop on the front
of squeeze clamp for those wood arrows that are not perfectly straight. There is 8" x 1 1/2" cut out of V track
for fletch clearance with 3/4" left of V track left for a bearing surface to strap nock end of arrow down. 7.5" feathers can be fletched on 5/16" to half inch arrow shafts The crank wheel is a toy wood wheel 1 1/2" with 3/8" hole and finishing nail glued across the end. I'll add a rope handle on the tool box for ease of carrying and box dividers to separate arrows, points, excetra. I found that
keeping the thread tension fairly light works the best when using tool. 
« Last Edit: May 07, 2015, 04:55:29 am by fiddler49 »

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #1 on: May 07, 2015, 12:55:19 am »
more pics worth many more words

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2015, 12:58:36 am »
with many more pics

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2015, 01:00:44 am »
with many more pics

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #4 on: May 07, 2015, 01:03:48 am »
with many more pics

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #5 on: May 07, 2015, 01:11:07 am »
with many more pics

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #6 on: May 07, 2015, 01:14:59 am »
with many more pics

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #7 on: May 07, 2015, 01:16:44 am »
with many more pics

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #8 on: May 07, 2015, 01:48:38 am »
I straighten the fletches to my liking and smear super glue on the front and rear wraps plus a bit along the rear half inch of the quills. Carbon arrows or wood arrows will work with this fletching method. Did you catch the slick little marking jig I came up with. The length can be adjusted with the slide knot. The squeeze clamp for arrow stop has a 3/4" block in between the out side skirts. It was sanded down just a bit thinner than the rail track but not glued to skirts. cheers fiddler49
« Last Edit: May 07, 2015, 04:22:25 am by fiddler49 »

Offline WillS

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,905
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #9 on: May 07, 2015, 04:13:57 am »
You're a hero.

Offline Roy

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,079
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2015, 08:14:10 am »
I just wrap a small piece of rag around the arrow shaft and clamp it in a vice, snug enough to hold it firm but loose enough that I can rotate it with my hand, then just keep rotating the shaft a little at a time as I space and feed the thread down into the feather. Works great.

Offline bow101

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,235
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2015, 03:04:41 pm »
Excellent post thar fiddler.  Great jig, better than homemade apple pie and a shot of shine I say. 8)  I'm a Canuk but Apple pie is my fave. ;)
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

Offline fiddler49

  • Member
  • Posts: 163
Re: fiddler's fletch serving tool, version # 2.0 build along
« Reply #12 on: May 10, 2015, 11:54:08 pm »
Here's the latest update on using the fletching tool. The wheel can slip so I rubbed bee's wax on it. This eliminates the slipping. Also I think the wheel can be made out of wood or most any thing as long as you rub bee's wax along the wheel for good traction. The paste wax really made the tracking arm move along the track much more easily, a good thing. The wheel depth is set so the body of the tracking arm pivots about a millimeter up and down with the right side facing you is a bit heavier and rides on top of the arrow.
If you are using a larger dia. arrow shaft say 11/32" and are getting 1/4 inch spacing and go to a smaller shaft and want to keep the same 1/4" spacing you have to adjust the wheel angle just a bit or the spacing will come out smaller. Same if you go to a bigger dia. shaft the spacing will be bigger. The feather splitter at the end of the arm needs very careful adjustment. The flat side of scarf needs to be the same angle as the feather barbs. The tip of the splitter needs to be about a millimeter away from feather quill when it's horizontal and a millimeter above. On the short feather stubble at the start you need to be careful and slower keep the thread close to tip and at the same angle as the feathers but as the feathers get longer you raise the thread higher against splitter keeping light tension on thread, then you can crank away pretty fast. Like any tool there is a learning curve and a little practice  makes a big difference. I've got about two dozen arrows made with the machine now with very fast uniform results. cheers fiddler49