Author Topic: yew stave question / sapwood color question  (Read 2691 times)

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Offline longbowhntr

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yew stave question / sapwood color question
« on: April 07, 2015, 07:49:46 pm »
Looking for some suggestions on how to proceed with this yew stave. I got this from Keenan in 2011 (I believe) at the TN Classic.Just now getting around to it.Ive never work with yew before, so any suggestions apreciated.
When I got it i think I told Mr Keenan i was going to do a semi bend handle sinew backed bow. Now I'm wondering if that is best way to go. The sap wood is mostly about 3/8 in thick. It does have alot of deflex. I was thinking reflex/defex.
Thanks again for your suggestions.
David


« Last Edit: April 26, 2015, 01:43:46 pm by longbowhntr »
Near Dardanelle of Yell County Arkansas

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #1 on: April 07, 2015, 08:41:56 pm »
If it where mine? Id thin the sapwood down to about 3/16-1/4" max. Then add significant reflex from mid limb out. Something in the 62-64" range.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline longbowhntr

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #2 on: April 07, 2015, 09:17:23 pm »
Thanks for the reply. A little more info...
One half of the stave has pin knots in rows about ever 6-8in. Each row has 4,5,6 or so. If i thin down the sap wood, how should handle the pin knots? Cut right them and back with rawhide or try to work each knot?
Also I only have a 26in draw 55-60 lbs.So how does 11/4  to 3/8, 60in ntn sound?
« Last Edit: April 07, 2015, 09:54:39 pm by longbowhntr »
Near Dardanelle of Yell County Arkansas

Offline crooketarrow

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #3 on: April 08, 2015, 01:22:39 am »
  I'll never make a bow trade it to me. I've got 60 ,70 staves. I'd love to trade you something.
DEAD IS DEAD NO MATTER HOW FAST YOUR ARROW GETS THERE
20 YEARS OF DOING 20 YEARS OF LEARNING 20 YEARS OF TEACHING

Offline WillS

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #4 on: April 08, 2015, 05:42:37 am »
Looks like a cool stave, it'll be full of character!

Ignore the pins, just cut through them.  Yew is one of the few woods that can tolerate crazy knots all over the place.  Don't need to back it with anything, just reduce the sap to a sensible thickness all over and minimize violations but again, with yew you can have a huge amount of ring violations without a problem.

I think you're spot on with a reflex/deflex idea.  You'll never get the deflex out so embrace it and work with it!

Offline longbowhntr

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #5 on: April 08, 2015, 09:17:36 pm »
Pearl Drums thanks for  your suggestion. 3/16 - 1/4 got it. Appreciate it.

Crooketarrow Thanks for trade offer but ....hmmm no  thanks. :)

WillS.  I have read that about cutting thru knots and ring violations on  yew before but it goes against all of my bow hacking experience. Thanks appreciate your input.
Near Dardanelle of Yell County Arkansas

Offline Gordon

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2015, 12:20:21 am »
You don't have to thin the sapwood if you are concerned about violating the back. How long is the stave?
Gordon

Offline longbowhntr

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2015, 01:55:23 am »
Gordon it is about 65 inches. I believe about 62-63 in ntn is about as long as I can get out of it. One end is not square so depending on how the bow is layed out I might get another 11/2 - 2 inches in length. In the 3rd pic you can see it has some issues in the heart wood but I dont think that will be problem once the bow is trimmed down to shape.
As far as thinning the sapwood I'm not really worried about doing that. It's just I mostly work with osage where, I'm sure you know, normally you don't violate knots and ring. I understand yew can handle those violations.
 If 3/16-1/4in thick sapwood would perform better than 3/8in I  don't mind thinning it down. In your opinion would it be better to thin it down some?

Appreciate you sir.
Near Dardanelle of Yell County Arkansas

Offline wizardgoat

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #8 on: April 09, 2015, 02:27:54 am »
Ive made more than a few 26" draw 50# yew bows, and you can get that with not alot of wood.  As you said 1 1/4" to 3/8"s  60" would do the trick.
you could shorter if you make it bend through the handle, but if you havent made many bows, or if you want to UP your chances of it becoming a bow, leave it full length.
If my sapwood is 3/8" or more I thin it, and violate freely. Just make sure you sand it baby smooth, take down your corners, and it doesnt hurt to burnish the back too.
As stated, yew deflex is tough to get it. I just roll with it, and usually recurve the tips.

Offline longbowhntr

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2015, 08:48:02 am »
Wizard,  I thought I was on the right track. Thanks for confirming that. My main hunting bow for the last couple years has been a 51in sinew backed osage bendy handle,  which I really  like. It seems more folks think unbacked should work so I'm leaning that way now. I may still go bend thru thru the handle. Undecided.
I do plan on adding refex in. Thanks again.
Near Dardanelle of Yell County Arkansas

Offline longbowhntr

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Re: yew stave question/Sapwood Color question
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2015, 12:58:40 pm »
I have this roughed out pretty much but i have a question about sapwood color.

As i thinned the sapwood down, the white sapwood turned more of a tanish color in part of the bow. Is this something to be concerned about? The sapwood thickness now about 3/16 for the most part. A better description might be like a cross between sapwood and heartwood, (darker than sapwood lighter than heartwood). It seems to be in 5 or 6 rings. Is this normal for yew? By the way I have it chased to one sapwood ring now i do believe.
If pics are needed let me know and I'll try to get some posted later.
Thanks again for your responses. They are much appreciated.
David
Near Dardanelle of Yell County Arkansas

Offline Del the cat

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Re: yew stave question
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2015, 01:14:53 pm »
Like Pearlie said +1 :)
Go flattish, oval section.
Don't worry about the pin knots... following a growth ring is just an aim, not a necessity. go for an even sapwood thickness and if you vioalte a few rings don't worry, but try to keep violations fairly gentle and at an angle/feathered or running along the bow.
With Yew you can lay out a straight bow on a curved stave to some extent, but it also takes to steam bending.
If you reflex the outers I'd recommend getting it to floor tiller first and maybe heat treating the belly at the same time. Take precautions to keep the heat off the sap wood (I clamp thin slats of timer along the edges, it also channels the heat along the limb)
Del
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