Author Topic: snake skins on boo: what glue? (Read 5012 times)

David Long · « **on:** January 30, 2008, 01:09:42 pm »

I am making a little boo backed ipe for my step son's birthday, and he will go absolutely batty if it has skins on the back (I've ordered a pair of diamond backs). I'd like this to work out really well for him, but I am worried about how well they will adhere to the boo with TBII. Any other suggestions? I've never used skins....

Dave

adb · « **Reply #1 on:** January 30, 2008, 01:14:00 pm »

I've used TB2 and TB3, both with good success. Never had a skin peel of with either.

David Long · « **Reply #2 on:** January 30, 2008, 01:16:36 pm »

Was that skins on boo?

Pappy · « **Reply #3 on:** January 30, 2008, 01:24:13 pm »

I have never done one on boo,but I would think that TB2 would hold.Just rough the surface a little with sand paper and maybe degrease it with something mild.I would suggest TB2 not 3 if this is your first skins,it will give you a little more time to work the skin down and get all the air pockets out.Then I rap it with ace bandage for several hours and remove it careful so as not to pull up the edges that some of the glue may stick to.

That should work fine.
Pappy

David Long · « **Reply #4 on:** January 30, 2008, 01:27:25 pm »

Thanks a heap. I'll proceed with TBII.
Dave

adb · « **Reply #5 on:** January 30, 2008, 01:42:36 pm »

With skins, I don't even bother to wrap the limbs. Lay down the glue (not too thick!!), spread a thin layer on your skins, and put them together. Work from handle to tip with your finger, making sure all the air is worked out. Work the skin down, giving it a little stretch sideways. Let the glue set up a bit (1/2 hr), and go along the edge of the skin with a very sharp blade, and trim the excess. Wait until the glue has completely cured (24hrs), before finishing trimming. Then, gently sand the edge, going with the grain of the scales. Use duct tape to remove scales before applying finish. I usually go with a semigloss brush on or spray on poly. I don't usually shoot the bow for a week, just to let the glue completely cure.

I have used hide glue for SSs, but it was a needless pain in the behind.

Pappy · « **Reply #6 on:** January 30, 2008, 01:57:20 pm »

I've tried the duct tap and had it rip the skins so I usually just rub in the direction of the scales with a soft rag fairly hard and the scales will come right off.The last few I did ,I put them in a bucket of water and just kept rubbing on the and all the scales came off in the bucket,then just wiped them off and let them dry a bit and put them on.After each coat of sealer I will rub it softly with 000 steel wool in the direction of the scales and then another coat.The sealer will make the scales stand up
so I just buff them off and seal again.After a few coats it will get as slick as a baby's behind.Just remember the skins are fragile so EASY is the word.

Pappy

David Long · « **Reply #7 on:** January 30, 2008, 02:11:16 pm »

Does shellac make a nice finish on skins? And what about the boo color showing through? Should I dye it dark before I put on the skins?
Dave

Pappy · « **Reply #8 on:** January 30, 2008, 02:22:16 pm »

Never used shellac,I use Tru Oil.It will make the skin show up better if you darken the wood/boo.
I do that sometime and sometime not.It will be a lot lighter if you don't.

Pappy

kayakfisher · « **Reply #9 on:** January 30, 2008, 08:41:45 pm »

I am by no means an expert on the subject but my first bow is a Hickory/Bamboo I finally used contact cement to put the skins on. then I shot the bow with what I believe was spar varnish in spray can everything is still going good no problem

El Destructo · « **Reply #10 on:** January 30, 2008, 11:42:59 pm »

What Pappy Says..........TiteBond2 and True Oil....nice light coats....and a bunch of them....works like a Charm...... WORD!!!!

mullet · « **Reply #11 on:** January 31, 2008, 12:21:08 am »

A Massey finish is a better seal on snake skins in my opinion.

Pat B · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2008, 12:59:43 am »

I always used Tru-Oil on skins and if you don't like the shine a quick spray of satin poly will kill the shine. With thin skins like western D back, prairie rattlers, copperheads, etc you shouldn't need to wrap after you apply the skin. I soak it in warm water while I prep the bow, roll the wet skin in a paper towel to remove the excess water and size both the skin and bow limb. Then I work from the handle(I usually wrap a temporary string around the handle end to hold it fast)and remove excess glue and air bubbles as I work down to the tip, centering the skin as I go. Like ADB, I wait an hour and trim and at least 24 hours before shooting.
Shellac will work but will yellow the skin with its amber color. Have you wiped the rind off of the boo. The glue should adhere with the rind scraped off. Pat

Primitive Archer