Author Topic: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow (Finished! Lots of pics)  (Read 14348 times)

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Offline Ardent

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Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow (Finished! Lots of pics)
« on: March 22, 2015, 04:21:20 pm »
This is the account of the making of my second bow, another English longbow-esque red oak board bow from the same board that I used to make my first bow: http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,50836.0.html. I decided to try for a heavier draw weight this time, since I already have a set of arrows spined #45-#48. I am going for #50 @ 29”.

Imgur album of all images: http://imgur.com/a/EQJHH

The piece of board I started with was 73” long, 1-3/16” wide, and 3/4” thick. The dimensions I marked out on it were as follows: Length: 73” tip to tip. Width: from center, the first 6” are full width, then begins to taper to 7/8” at 12” from the tip. From that point, the limb tapers to a 1/2" wide tip. Depth: from center, the first 6” is 3/4" thick, then tapers to 1/2" at the tip. We haven’t been running our air conditioner lately, so the relative humidity is high in our house, 70%. The board weighed 1 lb. 12.2 oz. before I started working on it.

My first bow has a very blocky rounded rectangle cross section. This one is a little wider, so I felt I could get away with a flat-backed D-shape cross section. Because I don’t have a band saw or drawknife, I used an angle grinder with a sanding disk to remove wood to get down to about 1/16” from my layout lines. I taped the end of my shop vac hose to the handle of the grinder so it would suck up most of the dust as it was produced, which it did. Way less dust in the garage than when I made my first bow.



Then I went after it with my brand-new Shinto saw rasp (a tool I can now highly recommend) to get the rest of the way there. I faceted the belly so that the D-shape would be more uniformly even, then rounded off the facets. I rounded off the corners on the back to a 1/8” radius (is 1/4" diameter “the size of a pea”? Eh, close enough…). After getting to the layout lines, weight was 1 lb. 4.6 oz. After faceting (but before rounding) the weight was 1 lb. 3.3 oz. After rounding everything, the weight was 1 lb. 2.5 oz.



Another new thing I wanted to try on this bow was tempering. I decided to do it after I got the bow to starting dimensions but before I started on the long string. I bought a Wagner heat gun, set a stopwatch on my phone, and started toasting the belly. I started 5” from the tip and stopped at the center line. It took 38 minutes to do one limb. I let the gun cool off for a while, then did the other limb, checking the stopwatch every so often to make sure I was going at the same pace as I did with the other limb. I’m not sure I toasted the belly enough - it is definitely uniformly darker with some dark patches - but it is not the “chocolate brown” that I have read about. Maybe I will heat-treat it again after I start tillering. Immediately after tempering I weighed it again, and it was 1 lb. 2.2 oz. The bow lost .3 oz. of weight to the heat gun.



At this point, I set the bow back down on a shelf and I am going to let it sit for at least three days to rehydrate before I start long string tillering. I will weigh it again at that point to see if it is back up to where it was before tempering.



I think I am going to try not backing this bow. The board has really good grain, so I think it can take it. I figure once I start tillering, if I start getting nervous I can always do it at that point. I know a linen backing would give a little insurance against breakage, but I think the bow would look much nicer without it. What do you think?

Any comments or advice on my progress so far would be appreciated. I will keep posting to this thread as I go to keep y’all updated. Thanks in advance for your input!
« Last Edit: May 03, 2015, 03:06:52 pm by Ardent »

Offline GB

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2015, 01:51:28 am »
Looks like you're off to a good start.  As long as the grain is straight, I wouldn't back it.  Shinto rasps rock!
Yeah, I remember when we had a President who didn't wear a tinfoil hat.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2015, 08:17:03 am »
Not the best design for red oak boards, but you should be okay at that length and weight. Keep that belly flat as a pancake.
Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Ardent

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow
« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2015, 06:09:05 pm »
I know red oak is not the best (at all) for being skinny and D-shaped, but once I do get my hands on some wood that allows me to make a "proper" ELB, I want to have already had some practice at that design. My first one is still kicking, so I figure I'll just keep pressing my luck. The belly is perfectly flat, it just has rounded corners.

Offline PAHunter

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow
« Reply #4 on: March 23, 2015, 06:33:29 pm »
Sounds like your on track.  The side grain in that picture looks a little scary (runoffs) but hopefully she holds for ya.  good luck!
Thanks,
Rob - Wexford, PA

"Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe". - Abe Lincoln

Offline sieddy

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow
« Reply #5 on: March 23, 2015, 07:48:05 pm »
Nice post it's great that you're talking us through your process. I hope it comes out shooting hard for ya!  :)
"No man ever broke his bow but another man found a use for the string" Irish proverb

Offline Ardent

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow
« Reply #6 on: April 08, 2015, 09:14:53 pm »
So I accidentally tillered a big hinge in the right outer limb. I have been trying to fix it, but the bow is not cooperating. My target draw weight is out the window – I’m just doing this to get the tiller straight now.

If you look at the braced pic, you can see that the right tip is lower than the left. However, when I bend the bow on the tree, everything is fairly even and the tips are lined up. What am I doing wrong?





And with ellipsis overlay, if it helps:


Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow (Please Help w/ Tiller!)
« Reply #7 on: April 08, 2015, 10:27:52 pm »
Tiller looks good.
I like a little less bending at the tips.
I could not tell if you hit your draw length yet?
If yes, I'd leave that area alone.
Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline Ardent

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow (Please Help w/ Tiller!)
« Reply #8 on: April 09, 2015, 09:15:14 am »
Here it is at my draw length, 29":


Online IdahoMatt

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow (Please Help w/ Tiller!)
« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2015, 09:28:43 am »
How does the amount of set look in the unbraced profile?

Offline Ardent

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow (Please Help w/ Tiller!)
« Reply #10 on: April 09, 2015, 09:51:07 am »
The right limb has about 1-1/2", and the left has 1". Ugh.

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow (Please Help w/ Tiller!)
« Reply #11 on: April 09, 2015, 09:58:25 am »
Tller looks very good. I've often seen one limb with a little more set. Shoot it. Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline RyanY

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow (Please Help w/ Tiller!)
« Reply #12 on: April 09, 2015, 10:13:45 am »
I think that the tiller looks more elliptical than a lot of the bows you see on here but for a long bendy bow I think its absolutely beautiful. Looks great! 1.5" of set isn't bad. I'd be a happy bowyer! ;D

Offline Ardent

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow
« Reply #13 on: April 09, 2015, 11:45:24 am »
Thanks for the feedback, guys. I will sand her down and seal her up. Since the draw weight ended up so low, I will probably donate this one to a friend who has no bow. I will post again when it's all finished.

Offline scp

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Re: Unbacked Red Oak Board Bow
« Reply #14 on: April 10, 2015, 12:00:39 am »
I  would  cut  the  tips  off  to make  the  bow  68 inches long  and heat bend  the tips  to remove all string  follow?