Quality Draw Knife?

[PAHunter]

After using an amazing draw knife at straightarrow's that could take a telephone pole to a toothpick before you blink, I'm ready to junk mine and get a good one!  I had no idea how much easier a good draw knife could be.  I particularly liked the weight and sharpness of the tool.  However most I'm finding on amazon etc. just don't look to be quality to me.

What is the best draw knife for bowmaking you have used and where is it sold? 

Fell free to PM me if a link if needed as we are not supposed to post links here.

thanks!

[osage outlaw]

Just about any old draw knife with a good clean edge will work great.  Look for them at antique stores, flea markets, or the big auction site.  You might try the trading post here on PA.  What kind of knife do you currently have?  Is it a newer one from tractor supply or something?

[hunterbob]

Check bearbowman (Steve smith).  He is a member here also I believe. Go to his Web site  I think he has some listed there for sale . He had some really nice ones.

[PAHunter]

Thanks guys.  I currently have one from Rockler.  I don't think it was cheap when I got it.  However it never cut close to as well as the Jon's.  Maybe I should also be asking how to properly sharpen one.  Currently I use 80 grit sand paper wrapped around a board.  Isn't helping much.  it is skipping across hickory that Jon's cut through like butter.   

[PatM]

80 grit?  No wonder. Get a proper stone for it or at least very fine emery paper.

[crooketarrow]

  I got all of mine from flea markets. Old is uselly good when it comes to anything you sharpen.

[make-n-break]

80 grit?  No wonder. Get a proper stone for it or at least very fine emery paper.

+1. Surprised you can even get it to cut hickory at all! You pry got a decent blade... You just need to put a decent edge on it. Do a lil research on sharpening and you'll be good to go. For what it's worth to ya, I use an $11 M*n*rds draw knife that cuts through hardwood like butta'. Just needs sharpened more often than a quality blade. I enjoy sharpening things haha, so I'll save the extra cash for other archery tackle.

[Drewster]

I have found two vintage Worth draw knives that are excellent tools.......$35-$42.00 range.  They are well made tools that will serve you for decades.  An 8" length is my favorite.  Check the big auction site frequently.  There are numerous other good brands out there but make sure you find one that is not pitted and has good, solid handles. 
But no matter what brand you have, you must learn to sharpen it correctly.  The bottom must be perfectly flat......no rounding or beveling at all......flat, flat, flat.  There are numerous sharpening systems that will get the job done depending on your budget.  I use a course diamond hone and then finish it off with a Washita Arkansas stone.  A sharp tool is much more efficient as you have already learned and much safer because you an control it. 

[JohnL]

     I use an antique (Rockford) Greenlee No. 600 drawknife, which was originally owned by my dad's grandfather; who used it in the Houston shipyard back in the day.  I've taken it on "permanent loan" from him and am very fortunate to have it in my kit.  It'll cut through Osage all day long and never lose its edge.  Only very hard/dense, dry hickory will dull it a bit.  It still has its original wood handles, with no cracks or chips, and is just as good now as the day it was new.  I prefer antique tools, when given the choice.  They were just made better and stand the test of time.  I'm the 4th generation to use this wonderful tool and I can guarantee it will outlive me as well!  I have a backup drawknife of a similar age and quality, which I gave $20 for at a swap meet, and I would put it up against any of those new $100-plus models you can get at the fine woodworking stores, any day.

[mikekeswick]

The steel in old tools in generally great quality but you'll need to find one that hasn't been abused (most have). Gransfors Bruk make a new top quality drawknife.
Either way get a good quality steel then learn how to sharpen effectively.
As said above FLAT back to the blade and then a single bevel on the other side - NO secondary bevel.
A couple of hours spent learning how to sharpen is essential. Even cheap steel can be made scary sharp it just won't stay that way as long as quality steel.
Sharpening tools is an art form in itself.
A drawknife should be able to slice paper with no ragged edges.

[mikekeswick]

If you've got a few bucks spare get a Tormek sharpening system....ummmm

[PAHunter]

Thanks for the info!!  I also saw amazing looking ones by Cariboo Blades; but they start at $250!  I think I'm also looking for one with some weight to it.  But first I'm researching sharpening and seeing what I can do with mine.  I attempted with a finle file, 600g sand paper, and a diamond broadhead slab.  It cuts the hold hickory better but still a fraction of the heavier better quality one I used. 

Basically it currently is a crazy amount of work to go from log to rough bow.  I'm not afraid of hard work but I suspect I would make many more bows if my tool worked better and it would be more enjoyable. 

[paco664]

I am a noob when it comes to bows but when it comes to sharpening things (especially straight razors) I know a bit more...
as they stated the back must be flat flat. ..

Leave the emory cloth/sand paper alone along with the file. .. repeat. . No file. ..

You can pick up a cheap whetstone pretty much anywhere for cheap. ..

secure the stone where it won't move and carefully match the angle on the front of the blade and draw it to you like you're trying to slice a thin layer off the top of the stone making sure to get the entire width of the edge on the pass. ..
look at the bevel. .. you should see a brightness to the edge to show where the metal is being removed.

Repeat this carefully until it is even. ..

Then repeat using the fine side of the stone. ..

If this isn't clear pm me and I'll give you my number. .. I'm better at words than typing

[Dances with squirrels]

Depending on how it was made, used, cared for, or sharpened previously, a file may be a better choice to get the non-beveled side completely flat. Initially, it may be way beyond the capabilities of a stone.

[paco664]

Depending on how it was made, used, cared for, or sharpened previously, a file may be a better choice to get the non-beveled side completely flat. Initially, it may be way beyond the capabilities of a stone.

but in the hands of someone not familiar with sharpening tools it can do a lot of damage in a surprisingly quick time...