dap plasic wood or other epoxy for handle splices ? dollar store epoxy ?

[bow-noob]

Hi, i have just used a two part epoxy from the dollar store to do a handle splice and boo back a lumber bow. I see now that maybe this wasn't the best idea but so far there is no issues, i dried strong but who knows what's really in there and if it will flex.

I am looking for the strongest and possibly the cheapest way to splice billets in the handle, was looking at DAP weldwood plasic resien stuff but would consider something else, i would use normal wood glue but my splices always have a bit of gaps..

then i plan on backing the bows with boo and thinking tb3 as it will be non toxic and pretty cheap, and my backs will be pretty smooth, but i am wonder if the tb3 will stick to the DAP weldwood or if there is somethign better to use.

Thanks

[Del the cat]

I would use a known good brand name glue for everything that is stressed on a bow.
There is a saying in the UK...
"penny wise , pound foolish".
I s'pose that translates to "Cent wise Dollar foolish"
You don't want to save a few cents on glue and then ruin several dollars worth of timber.
Del

[Eric Krewson]

I have found normal epoxy is too brittle for handle splices. Buy some Unibond, if you have a few weeks in a bow it is worth using a good glue for splices and backings.

[Wooden Spring]

DAP Weldwood is good stuff, but personally, I try to stay away from water based products - just a personal choice though. I've been using Resorcinol lately with terrific results! It was recommended to me by a friend who is a wooden boat builder by trade, and this stuff is good, industrial strength, all weather glue that will not fail you if you mix it right. It's expensive, but it's worth it if you ask me.

[bow-noob]

Hi, ya i was looking the dap weldwood it looks good. It might be nice to have the same glue for the backing as the splice but doesn't have to be.

I forgot to mention, i guess i would prefer something less toxic if possible to be spending so much time with it would be nice. I know tightbond 3 would be good for the backing, might just go with that, but so far i have seen the need for gap filling for splices, and i guess tt3 needs to clamped tightly and wont fill gaps

[PEARL DRUMS]

Id suggest a can of Uni Bond 800 for any backing material and any splice.

[bubby]

Unibond or smooth on, get a lot of bows done for the money

[vinemaplebows]

Devcon 30 minute, never had issues....you must mix well.

[Pat B]

Weldwood Plastic Resin is a urea glue like Urac and Unibond, comes in powder form, mixes with water, works well and is cheap.

[bow-noob]

I think i will go with the dap stuff so far, yes i used dollar store epoxy on  my latest bow, and no i don't feel so smart about doing that as i don't trust it really.

as for DAP plastic wood :

1. it will fill slight gaps a bit in spice areas ?

2. it needs to be clamped tight like wood glue or more like epoxy ?

3. will a 3m - p100 mask filter set up provide any protection from working with this type of glue, is this dap stuff pretty harmeful compared to other glues ? seems like if you spending lots of time with the stuff worth thinking about when choosing a decent product.

[vinemaplebows]

I would not use Dap for splices, although it is a good glue (as Pat B said) better for gluing lams...my opinion. Just is not thick enough glue....and messy as hell.

[JoJoDapyro]

Quotes that popped in my head. "You get what you pay for" stepping over dollars to pick up dimes" "if its worth being done, it worth being done right the first time". What is a bow with a broken handle slpice? It is just wood. And my favorite "you can do things cheap, you can do things fast, or you can do things right"

[Prarie Bowyer]

My z splices are rarely "perfect". But I use tb3. Then go back with either the DAP when I laminate the backing or strong ten ton epoxy....have used the gorilla epoxy to good effect.


DAP Is great for wood to Boo joints or risers with some gaps.

[vinemaplebows]

Where are you getting 10 ton epoxy? Brand?

[fiddler49]

As a cautionary note, I repaired a socket type take down that broke while using a stringer. The stringer socket covered the nock and I couldn't tell that the string loop was only half way on! So I made a V type splice and used 5 minute epoxy on the upper limb handle. The splice look good and snug so I shot it over the next couple of weeks, maybe two hundred shots. I went out to our range one morning and at the first target on the bag range
I drew the bow back to my usual 31"and BAM!!!!! The splice gave way with no noise just smacked me in the head and abdomen and put me to my knees bleeding profusely from my scalp!!! I was really dazed and felt like the bottom limb had penetrated my abdomen. This bow was a laminated wood and glass long bow, 62 lbs at 28"
so at 31" I was likely pulling 71 lbs. I have broken many wood bows since but none of them were near as bad as this one. It was a humbling lesson!!! Could have been worse and taken my eye out.  The epoxy completely failed
after two hundred shots. A better type of glue and even a strong wrap would have been worth what ever price!!! cheers fiddler49