Design and Accuracy

[arachnid]

Hi Guys.

I posted this question on my "wood types" post but I figured it`s a topic on it`s own.

Since I only use my bow for stomp and target shooting, accuracy is the most imortant factor for me.
What are the best designs or design modifications (in genral, of course) for an accurate bow (besides center-shot)?
From what I know so far, a long bow with a some deflex/string follow will be more forgiving to bad release, makind it easier to be accurate with.
I`d like to know if there are more elements I could consider to make the bow more "forgiving"/accurate.

And yes, I know good form and tuned arrows are critical, but I since these factors are a matter of tuning and practice (and there`s a ton of info online)
I`m not asking about them. I`m on a "quest" to make the optimal bow that can provide me with the best accuracy and consistency.

Thanks,

Dor

[PAHunter]

I honestly think you can get pretty darn accurate with any well made bow.  I'm generally heard longer is more forgiving but I can't say I think I shoot my longer bows any better than my shorter recurves.  Seems about the same when I practice with them enough.  I personally prefer a shelf.  Not that it makes a bow more accurate if you spine the arrow well but it makes it easier to get center shot and to see somewhat.  That's my rather novice 2c.

[Hrothgar]

I would agree that longer tends to be better. A few years ago I made several ELBs and longer American style flat bows. They are impractical for hunting but fun and consistent on a target range.

[blackhawk]

Yins guys remember this thread    when I started it I had target shooting and shot placement as the most important thing pertaining to a bows features etc...

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,44056.0.html


For strictly target shooting when i want things to count I like a 45-50 pound 66"-76" length bow with either a shelf glued on or cut in(for a 28-29" draw). On the ones I cut in a shelf I like to make the handle/riser section longer than normal for added stability. When I want to go run the range and goof off with my buddies I'll grab whatever and not care.

[Pat B]

Accuracy comes from the shooter. The bow only pushes the arrow.

[adams89]

English Longbow or a flatbow, not to short and wit just a little set like Baker describes, about 70  inches for a 28 inch draw small tips and a lightly traped back. Those are the ones that are very forgiving. as for any other style, the accuracy grows with the shooter, but one can say that there is no comparing between an english longbow and a horsebow or short sinew backed bow, i also find just a very little set ( half an inch) is giving a bow a smoother cast and a lot of control.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Accuracy comes from the shooter. The bow only pushes the arrow.

Couldn't agree more, good tiller helps to . The difference is the learning curve from bow to bow. A fat handled bow may take a bit longer for your hand and brain to connect while a narrow handled, close to center shot bow might take 6 shots to get your eye and hand working together.

[George Tsoukalas]

I think it all depends on the shooter. I like a no stack bow of 45-50#.
I have a 26" draw. I like a length of around 64-66" ntn. Bending needs to start at the fades or actually go into the fades.
Set makes no difference. I adjust.
Jawge

[crooketarrow]

  For years I made bows 60" to 64"s stiff handle, shelf,oval cross section limbs, leave the last 5 inch's of tip stiff, tiller down as close into the handle as I can get it. Not really a pyramid still. But close. Usually around 1,1/8, 1 1/4 depending on the stave.

  GOOD CAST, GOOD SPEED I've made lots of bows into 17fps 2 in the 180 fps those were sinewed.  I gave up on knowing the speed of my bows 15 YEARS AGO.

  SMOOTH,NO STACKING most important it shoots where you look. If you line the handle up straight with the limbs. This is why some bows shoot better where you look at. You've made the handle straight with the limbs. With out knowing it.

  But I'm a hunter in 06 2 strokes after 35 years of stand hunting. Made me a total ground hunter. I'll never climb another tree if I could.

  I buck hunt off a milk creates I gobbler hunt with my butt on the ground, The last 7 or 8 years I'm made shorter bows. In the mid 50's range. All my shots are close 15 yards or closer. So a bows lengths not that important. Unless you shoot low to the ground.

I once learned to shoot HOWARD HILL aiming style with a 64" bow I could shoot 8 inch groups at 50 yards not a couple times every time.  I've never shot a shorter bow aiming like this. But like JAWGE said it comes down to the person.
  I Know 2 people that can really shoot. I mean 4 inch groups at 30 with a selfbow ,6,8"s with a glass re curve at 50 yards. The one with a glass long bow he shot 1,2" groups at 25 yards.

  But what I know from collecting,building shooting every bow I could touched. Also from what I've read all the old timers HIILL,POPE and quite a few others all shot distance. They all shot pounds and longer bows.

  My vote is for longer bows shoot better unless it's some body that shoots exceptional.

[bradsmith2010]

if the bow has little stack, ,it is more forgiving,, as far as long bows go, ,most the time the slightly longer bow will be a little more forgiving and have less stack,,, and most target shooters lean that way for that reason( and versatility),, I love to shoot a short bow for hunting( and can shoot accurately),, but if I wanted to do well at long range target shooting as well,, I would shoot a 66ish  long bow with 28 inch draw,, in a weight I could handle all day,,(and that would depend on how much I had been practicing)

[GB]

Longer limbs for stability makes sense to me, 'tho I'm sure there are short bow shooters who are very good with their bows.  Well tillered, so it doesn't tip when you release.  And a grip that doesn't lend itself to torquing.  Get arrows with the correct spine and practice, practice, practice.

[mikekeswick]

One tip for when you come to make this ideal  bow is to leave the handle section full width (fade width) until you've got it to full brace height. This way you can shape the handle to line up perfectly to the string and not have to tweak the limb alignment later. When you do this you'll eliminate any torquing issues that you could possibly get if the stave has any character or twist etc
For pure accuracy I prefer a longer bow around 66 - 68. Some sort of shape to the grip to act as a hand locator. Hand position is important to accuracy. At the end of the day though archery is about feel and what you feel is right maybe wrong for somebody else. A well tillered bow with a design that gives you no stack at a weight you are in complete control of is a good starting point.....then it's practise time.
Oh and stick with the same bow to get to really know it.