white oak board bow.. full draw on page 2

[paco664]

i am working on a board bow *(white oak) and was thinking of putting a boo backing on it... my question being can i use boo strips or small slats if you will *(approx 1/4~3/8" wide each x 36") or do i need to have it one piece per limb?  this will be put down with knox glue...
 

as always you guys knowledge is appreciated and obeyed...

[Pat B]

You can join backing strips at the handle with an overlay over the joint. It will be more difficult with boo because of its crowned back though.

[PatM]

The multiple backing strip technique is going to be way too challenging.

[Roy]

I have done that many times with no problems. I cover the boo splice with my 4" leather grip. I use unibond800 glue.

[PatM]

 You guys are not reading his post correctly.

[DarkSoul]

White oak doesn't need a backing, as it is very strong in tension, and not great in compression.
Knox gelatin in not a great glue for wood to wood applications.
Narrow strips of bamboo can be placed side by side to form a wider backing, but it is really challenging. It's difficult to get them seamlessly staggered.
A backing is strongest when it's continuous from one nock to the other. It is possible to join them in the handle, but it may need a lam on top of it, and at least a stiff handle.

All in all, I can see too many hurdles along the road. I would advice you to change your plan.

[Roy]

Oop's I did read it wrong.. No I would not attempt that...

[paco664]

Thanks fellas.. I'll search for better bamboo. ..

[arachnid]

As Darksoul stated, white oak is a very tension string wood. It is actualy used to back other woods (I really love white oak backing over ipe). So the question is- Why do you want to back it? Is the grain not straight?
And why bamboo?

[paco664]

As Darksoul stated, white oak is a very tension string wood. It is actualy used to back other woods (I really love white oak backing over ipe). So the question is- Why do you want to back it? Is the grain not straight?
And why bamboo?

the grain is straight and pretty. 
i wanted to back it to raise the draw weight and to minimize any chance of breakage.

[Parnell]

Call the lumberyard and you'll find Ipe down here.  I did.  My learning curve bows were maple backed Ipe.  They can be very fast shooters.

[paco664]

Call the lumberyard and you'll find Ipe down here.  I did.  My learning curve bows were maple backed Ipe.  They can be very fast shooters.

the only place i found that listed Ipe was a marine place in fort lauderdale.  i called and they said it was a special order for them and the price made blood squirt out of my nose.

there is a hardware place here in miami where i can get red/white oak,  they also had ash,bubinga,teak,purple heart, poplar and several more i can't remember.

so if you know a place i can pick up the Ipe text it to me please.  i'm just trying to get a bow across the finish line.

[Pat B]

You will have a better chance of breakage with the boo than with a white oak backing. I stopped making boo backed bows because the boo was too undependable for me.

[arachnid]

What are the dimensions of your bow and what's your target draw weight?
You can add a white oak or hickory strip on the back and it will increase the draw weight. Boo is just too damn strong and needs a strong belly wood such as ipe, osage or yew.
If the grain is straight on the back, there is no reason the should fail. If you want to be on the safe side, a rawhide, linen, silk or even paper backing will do a good job making sure no splinters are raised.

[Parnell]

You'll probably want to toast the heck out of the belly with a heat gun and some oil - Crisco before you start tillering.  It'll help to compress the belly cells to reduce set.  White oak is notorious.