remember this?

[sailordad]

   Hi everyone,
Awhile back i posted pics of a stave i had acquired,remember this.
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5130/1000268tr2.jpg

well after a little work on the band saw,and several hours with a sureform,i got it down to 2 inches wide approx 62 inches long.
I would like to make a 58 inch ntn bow,don't know what style would work best. I figure if I ask here that someone would be willing to give me some advice.
now i have noticed that the stave has a knot right in the middle area(handle area) and another at about 6 inches past center,it also has a twist(or what I've heard referred to as propeller) in it.so if i could get some advise on that also it would be appreciated.the stave als has a natural reflex(?) to it.
I would like to end up with a decent hunting bow if at all possible.

http://MIG179.imageshack.us/MIG179/8600/1000285to9.jog
http://MIG165.imageshack.us/MIG165/7043/1000291Io9.jog
http://MIG179.imageshack.us/MIG179/5202/1000293AI0.jog


                                                                                                                PEACE,

                                                                                                                     Tim

[koan]

Cant get the pics?......Brian

[Coo-wah-chobee]

.....Like Brian said.....bob

[sailordad]

o.k. let me try this again,
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/6870/1000270xj9.jpg


http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/4071/1000291vi8.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/1677/1000285pq8.jpg
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/3420/1000293ch5.jpg

[Ryano]

No I dont remember. What kind of wood was it? Elm ?

[Pat B]

First of all, what wood is the stave? I'd say there isn't enough prop twist to worry about. You are working with a stave and not FG.    Will you post a pic of the knots on the back of the bow? the one in the handle area probably isn't an issue(unless you want a bendy handle bow) but the one just past the handle could be a problem. If you can eliminate it while removing wood it won't be a problem.       Pat

[DanaM]

So much easier to just post the pictures, personally I rarely bother to open
them from a photo hosting site.

[sailordad]

Ryano: the stave is hickory(the guy said shaggy bark hickory,i couldn't tell the diff.)

Pat B: I am working with a stave,don't know what FG is. There are no knots left on the back side of the wood,they were off to the sides,angled inward,and removed when cut on the band saw.

Dana. I would be more than happy to post them here,but I don't know how and or if it would work,most my pics are taken with an 8.1 megapixel or 10+ megapixel cameras,don't hardly ever use the 1.2 anymore.


                                                                                  PEACE

[DanaM]

Easy enuf pics have to be 200kb or less, on the reply screen just click the addittional options, and
follow the directions, you can post up to 6 pics at a time

[Pat B]

FG means fiberglass. You can get away with a lot more imperfections with a wood bow than you can with a FG bow. One problem all of us have(had) is that in todays modern world, we think everything has to be perfect.We aren't making Swiss watches here. With wood bows, that is not necessarily true. Look at the character bows that folks here have posted. If you tried that with a FG bow, more than likely they would not survive.
   A little prop twist isn't much of a problem with wood bows. Look at Jawge's site. He built a bow a year or so ago that was severely twisted(prop twist) and the bow is a success. A little twist can be tillered out of the stave or lived with. The less artificial manipulation to a wood bow, the better, in my opinion.
   If the knots are not effecting the back and/or have been worked out of the belly you should be OK. if one is on the side of the bow then you should leave a bit more wood around it for protection.    Pat

ps. To post pics here it shouldn't matter how many megapixels your camera is. Go to the quality settings on your camera and set it at the lowest quality setting. On most of the dig cameras I have seen, that setting will give you pics that are 640x480 and under 200kb. It took me 2 years to figure that I could adjust the camera instead of the computer to get pics that PA would accept.

[Ryano]

What draw weight at what draw length are you after and do you want a ridged handle or a bend through the handle type bow? There are many designs that could work for you, I will try to help you pick a good one if you give me more information.

[sailordad]

     Thanks Ryano,

I'm looking for a rigid handle design, with a draw weight of 50-55 lbs,and about 27" draw if possible. I would consider doing a sinew backing if need be.
I really appreciate any input,being only my second bow,first from stave up.

                                                                                       PEACE,

                                                                                              Tim

[Ryano]

For you first bow its important to keep things simple, I would just try for a straight limbed long bow (no added reflex/deflex or recurve ) That stuff can come later with time. I would recomend you use all the length you've got there, make it 60" ntn if you have a 62" peice of wood. I would start out with 2" wide limbs at the fades and Taper them straight 1 1/2" wide at three quarters the length of the limb, then taper them to 3/8" at the tips of the bow. If this is your first time working with hickory, I can't stress enough it needs to be very, very, dry. I would recomend keeping the bow in a hot box with light bulbs or near a wood stove if you have one, while your not working on the stave. You can't get hickory to dry.