Pecan Staves (Pics)

[tradrick]

I got my hands on these pecan logs I mentioned the other day.I sealed the ends with shelac.They'll get another coat after I finish getting them into staves.It was recommended to build the bows a little wider than usual.So how wide do you guys think I should leave the staves?How wide do you think I should leave the finished bow at the fades?Does this wood not have a heart wood?It all looks the same to me.Since this is said to be like hickory.Do I just take the bark off and that is the bows back?

  I also am thinking of roughing one stave out to rough bow demensions and makeing a form to reflex the tips as it cures.Does this sound like a wise thing to do?If I do rough a bow out should'nt I reseal the ends and back of the bow with the shelac?Sorry for all the questions.But I'm still a rookie.I've only worked with wood that had been preped for me.This will be the first from tree to bow I've done.All help and advice would be greatly appreciated.tradrick

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[El Destructo]

Pecan is a member of the Hickory Family and a good Bow Wood...all you need do is strip off the Bark for a finished Back....as for roughing the Staves out ....I always remove the Bark when green....it come off so much nicer then....and after roughing them out....I seal them and clamp them up to dry....seems to work good for me

[Pat B]

If you remove the bark from green wood you should seal the back. By taking the stave down to almost bow size you reduce the chance of checking(especially with Carya sp. wood...hickory and pecan)but I would still shellac the back and ends. You can have a dry stave in as little as 6 weeks by reducing it to almost bow size. Clamping it to a form will keep it from twisting, etc but also it should hold most of the R/D you put into it by clamping it to a R/H form.
   You will note I said it will "dry" in as little as 6 weeks. It won't be cured in that short time so you may find it taking on weight as more time goes on...until it is cured.     Pat

[tradrick]

Thanks guys I appreciate it alot.PatB is there any way of knowing when the wood is fully cured or moisture content is low enough.I would also like recommendations on bow deminsions.tradrick

[Ryano]

I'd try 2" wide to half the length of the limb then taper to 1 1/2" at 3/4 limb then taper to 3/8" at the tips.  64" ntn with a 8" ridged handle. But what is your draw length/weight ?

[Pat B]

Tradrick, I go by sound and the feel of the wood when working it and by the resistance when bending(don't over stress it). This comes with many years of experience though. You can use a moisture meter but the pin type meters will only tell you what the M/C is as deep as the pins go.
   Under the dry winter conditions, 6 weeks or so will be a good starting point with a stave that is at almost bow dimensions. Even if it is not completely dry you can take the bow to floor tiller stage(about 4" of bend) without over stressing. At this point, it will dry even faster. When you speed up the drying of a bow stave you will probably find it will increase in draw weight over the next year or so as the wood cures.
   I also like Ryan's dimensions. After you build a bow with these dimensions you may be able to adjust the design on the next bow.  Pat

[tradrick]

Thanks again guys.Ryano my draw is 26''.I would like a 55 to 60# bow at my draw and after its shot in.tradrick

[Pappy]

Them dimension's should do that OK.As far as drying I would do what Pat said.If you get it
thinned down you may want to clamp it to something straight ,or even with a little backset to let it dry so it don't twist.
   Pappy