Holmegaard build along

[adb]

I continue working out towards the tips. It usually takes two inner tubes per side. I try to wrap so there is no overlap, allowing air to circulate, and so I can see glue oozing from the joint. You have to work fairly quick.

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[adb]

Finish wrapping each side, right out to the tips. You should see glue flowing out of the joint, this way you know the joint will not be glue starved.

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[adb]

I usually flip the form around in the vise, and wrap the other side. That's it. Glue up is done. Although the manufacturer says clamping time is only a couple of hours, I will leave the boards wrapped on the form for overnight, and I will not stress the joint for at least 48 hours. No hot box. My shop is room temp, and humidity controlled at 40% RH.
The big red clamps are only holding the rubber ends in place, they're not doing any other work.

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[adb]

Yah, my shop is clean! Doing this build along was a good incentive to tidy up the pig pen!! The apron? It's leather... I made it myself. No wood chips? That's coming! I really don't profess to being a stricktly "primitive" bowyer. I like bows from staves, like everyone else, but I also like to not limit myself. I truly love building these Holmegaard bows from backed boards. Not primitive, but certainly from a primitive design.

My next project is a 74" yew self bow, about 60#, bending full compass, horn nocks. I've just aquired an absolutely gorgeous yew stave... no knots, straight.

OK, I'm pooped. Sack time. More tomorrow.

[Pat B]

adb, I meant no offense. I am not a primitive bowyer by any means. Steel tools, band saw, belt sander, synthetic glues and finishes. That's how primitive I am. Now my shop on the other hand looks like a bomb went off in it.
  Like I said, the hickory backed osage is a great combo and with a Holmsgaard design, it should be a real good shooter. Again looking forward to the outcome.     Pat

[adb]

Hey, Pat B
None taken!! My work space is also quite small, so I have to kind of keep it a bit tidy, otherwise I'm tripping over myself! Yes, a bandsaw, belt sander, table saw, etc., have all become part of the arsenal of power tools. It saves time... and I'm a weekend, hobby bowyer. However, when the rubber hits the road, and the wood starts to bend, it's hand tools only. More of that to come over the next few weeks!

[Ghost Dog]

Your sense of purpose and your precision is impressive. This is going to be way too much fun to watch!

[adb]

So... the glue-up has been curing on the form for 24hrs. I've unwrapped it, and taken it off the form. Now, I am able to remove the packing tape off the face off the form, eliminating the glue run-off.
I think it was a bit hard to see the packing tape, on the form, in the initial pics.

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[adb]

The glue line looks really good. You can see there is no glue starving at the line.

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[adb]

Here is the glue-up, warts and all! The board is 68", and the hickory backings are all cut at 72", so the backing sticks out each end a bit. Next step will be drawing out the bow's profile, on back and sides. Hopefully, tomorrow after work!

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[jwillis]

Don't let these guys bother you.  My shop is clean, too!   Jim

[Justin Snyder]

Who wants a clean shop.  I keep it that way on purpose so when I want to start a fire I got plenty of kindling.  Justin

[adb]

Hi, Everybody,
Well... for tonight's segment, we're going to lay out the bow's dimension profile. Because the backing is just slightly wider than the osage belly wood, I'm going to draw the profile on the belly. I normally do this on the back, but it doesn't really matter with a board bow. Here's what you'll need: pencils, pencil sharpener, 36" ruler, 24" center point ruler, sharpie, square, and eraser.

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[adb]

After consulting with the customer, just to double check, the bow's dimensions will be: 66" overall length. I always use pin nocks with a Holmegaard bow, for two reasons: it just looks better (and is historically correct), and you want to make the tips as light as possible. Pin nocks only require 1/2", so the bow will be 65" NTN when finished.

[adb]

The first order of business, is to establish a center line. This is the line which will be the basis for all other measuring, so it has to be STRAIGHT! The easiest way to do this is to use a plumb line. I use a piece of black FF string. First, I'll use the square, and mark the bow's center. Next, I'll lay the string down the long center of the stave, and hold it in place with spring clamps. Because the board isn't perfectly straight, you can't use it's edges as reference guides.

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