Author Topic: Hide glue and finishes  (Read 12036 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline akila

  • Member
  • Posts: 399
Re: Hide glue and finishes
« Reply #15 on: January 26, 2008, 09:12:53 pm »
HI...HERE IS A GR8 LINK ABOUTE HIDE GLUE.......YOU CAN FIND HERE DIFERENT WAIS OF MAKING HIDE GLUE...WATTER PROOF,, OR MORE FLEXIBILE..ETC.
http://www.deller.com/newpage8.htm

PK

  • Guest
Re: Hide glue and finishes
« Reply #16 on: January 27, 2008, 04:26:15 am »
 ;)

John R

  • Guest
Re: Hide glue and finishes
« Reply #17 on: January 31, 2008, 07:50:16 pm »
As a gluten for punishment, I'm not too sure how many bows I've sinew backed but it's probably more than 50 and maybe closer too 100. Anyhoo, keeping with the primitive nature of things and working within the limits of natural materials, I've gotten away nicely with just greasing bows including the sinew backed ones... After they've been test shot enough to show that there aren't any hidden issues that would need to be dealt with. If you are gonna need a bow in rainy weather, consider using a self bow or a sinew backed bow that has snake skin backing to help prevent sticky sinew. If the sinew gets wet or damp, big deal, let the bow dry out... Sinew was born of water so if it every gets wet, it's not a killer. Something outside of this question though is how to deal with a sinew backing that goes all the way down to the belly on a very short highly stressed sinew backed bow. Because of compression , sinew likes to pull away from the edges if you carry it all the way to the belly, so I started wrapping my Cupid's shaped and Gull Winged Plains bows like this: They have generous tip wraps, and I also apply a thinned rawhide tip wrap to protect the sinew strings. I then put two midlimb wraps on each wrap, along with a center handle wrap. Then, between the wraps I make a nice and even criss cross pattern running down the limbs using long back strap sinew. Effectively, there is no more than 1/4 inch of unreinforced backing without having to fully wrap the bow, and the criss crossing looks way cool especially if the midlimb sinew wraps are covered with bands of scrap snake skin, going all around the bow. Sorry to be so wordy, John

PK

  • Guest
Re: Hide glue and finishes
« Reply #18 on: January 31, 2008, 07:55:37 pm »
As a gluten for punishment, I'm not too sure how many bows I've sinew backed but it's probably more than 50 and maybe closer too 100. Anyhoo, keeping with the primitive nature of things and working within the limits of natural materials, I've gotten away nicely with just greasing bows including the sinew backed ones... After they've been test shot enough to show that there aren't any hidden issues that would need to be dealt with. If you are gonna need a bow in rainy weather, consider using a self bow or a sinew backed bow that has snake skin backing to help prevent sticky sinew. If the sinew gets wet or damp, big deal, let the bow dry out... Sinew was born of water so if it every gets wet, it's not a killer. Something outside of this question though is how to deal with a sinew backing that goes all the way down to the belly on a very short highly stressed sinew backed bow. Because of compression , sinew likes to pull away from the edges if you carry it all the way to the belly, so I started wrapping my Cupid's shaped and Gull Winged Plains bows like this: They have generous tip wraps, and I also apply a thinned rawhide tip wrap to protect the sinew strings. I then put two midlimb wraps on each wrap, along with a center handle wrap. Then, between the wraps I make a nice and even criss cross pattern running down the limbs using long back strap sinew. Effectively, there is no more than 1/4 inch of unreinforced backing without having to fully wrap the bow, and the criss crossing looks way cool especially if the midlimb sinew wraps are covered with bands of scrap snake skin, going all around the bow. Sorry to be so wordy, John
Words of wisdom are always welcome in my world.

John R

  • Guest
Re: Hide glue and finishes
« Reply #19 on: January 31, 2008, 10:44:20 pm »
If you want to find pitch though for stuff like putting stone points on arrows, it's kind of sketchy, but if you can find globs on fir or spruce trees from pitch mass borers, it's easy to gather bunches. The only thing is that ya have to strain out the bug poo. An easy way to make a good strong mix of goo is to take a tuna can with some kind of handle (I use a pair of vise grips) and stick your glob of pitch in it. To keep it from being brittle add some ground up charcoal from your fire pit. The third thang is a bit of grease. Warm the stuff up and mix it, and test it out by getting a bit and making a ball. When it cools you can see whether to add grease a little at a time. It depends so much on how much of the volatiles left the pitch glob. It's also good for making Australian Woomers (their versions of atlatls) The Aussies would set their spur onto their woomeras with a glob of pitchy stuff.