bear recurve fix

[bubbles]

Hey guys, posted this here because it involves a fiberglass bow. What do you guys think is the best course of action to get this shooting again? I had it "fixed" with a hide glue and rawhide wrap. PatM suggested I get rid of that and try and get it back to the way it was.  I have G2 epoxy and resourcinol. Which would be best? Or should i get another adhesive?  These are pics of the left and right side of the bottom recurve.

[sleek]

Id for sure match the original epoxy, or resin, as closely as possible.  Also a good acetone wash inside the damage to remove any oils or amine blush in there. Id inject it with as much resin as I could, the invest the time into making a vacuum bag to get a good amount of even presure and remove air bubbles.  If not vacuum bad is possible, use slow curing medium thickened ( with a colloidal silica ) resin, pack it full so its running out the sides but thick enough to stay inside the bow mostly. The flex the bow to work the resin Inside further damage you cant see or reach. Repeat with a thinner mix to get deaper then again with a thickened mix again. This will drive it deep into cracks. Then wrap with an innertube to apply even consistent clampling pressure and squeeze out the excess. Clean as good as you canbecause one hhardened its gonna be lots of work.

[adb]

Geez. Looks pretty bad. It's not just delaminated... the wood fibers are pulled apart and torn. Also in the working portion of the recurve. I think I'd call it done if it was mine, unless you have some sentimental attachment.

[bubbles]

Im applying pressure to open up the crack. If i take the pressure off, its completely  closed and seals back up, whicH gives me hope. 

[sleek]

It will be fine. Just repair like I said. Trust me i know repairs as an aviation mechanic of 10 years. Honestly if it weren'tfot the glassnid saybuse wood goue all the way but resin ( probably what was used ) or epoxy ( better than almost any resin ever but mostly not ccompatible to be used on resin ) will do the job. I have also built two boars of my own design of wood and epoxy. Pretty good with it.

[bubbles]

Sleek, would you happen to know the specific epoxy used? Its a 1953 bear Kodiak.

[mullet]

If it's green glass and it looks like it, it's not 53. That's the Patent number. What Sleek said might work  but the glass is not the same as the 70's. I'd cut it in half and make a lamp. Don't know if I'd want to shoot an ugly, crippled, Kodiak.

[bubbles]

It is green glass.  Good to know mullet. I always assumed that was the year.

[mullet]

Is it a Grizzly or Kodiak Hunter? Either one is cheap. Easier to buy another one then go to that much trouble. I might have one.

[bubbles]

I bought it off a guy at an archery range for $20 bucks, because its left handed and he was never going to use it.  So no real sentimental value, just seeing if its fixable.  It might be a grizzly or Kodiak, ill check when I get home. Some type of large brown bear:)

[chamookman]

Personally I'd blow taps over it and make it a Wall Hanger - My.02. Bob

[bubbles]

Blow taps?

[adb]

taps... you know... the taps tribute played for dead military personell at their funeral. Played on a bugle or trumpet.

It is often claimed that "Taps" is a derivation of "Tattoo,"[1] which originates from the Dutch term taptoe, meaning "close the (beer) taps (and send the troops back to camp)". The more likely explanation, however, is that it carried over from a term already in use before the American Civil War. Three single, slow drum beats were struck after the sounding of the Tattoo or "Extinguish Lights." This signal was known as the "Drum Taps," "The Taps," or simply as "Taps" in soldier's slang. From Wikipedia.

[paoliguy]

I think that's a wall hanger. Even if I fixed it I'd never trust it to shoot it. I love my old Bears but not when they want to smack me up side the head!

[sleek]

Id do it just for the experience. 

On navy ships we get the announcement " Tattoo tattoo,  lights out in 5 minutes. Stand by for the evening prayer. "
Then 5 min later its , " Taps taps lights out. Maintain silence about the ship, now taps.
Then dayshift hits the rack and night shift starts. Of course as a night check guy, I never understood why dayshift got to be loud and leave lights on but nights had to respect days sleep time. Oh well, talk about a thread drift....