Author Topic: How do you seal/finish your bows? what do you use, what is your process and why?  (Read 11363 times)

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Offline cdpbrewer

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I hate finishing, can't spray, and like a thin finsh so I use Minwax oil based wipe on polyureathane.  I perfer the looks of a danish oil finish but it dries too slow for me. 

The bow is sanded to 280 grit and inspected for tool marks in sunlight.  First coat of gloss wipe-on is applied over a period of around 20 minutes- the wood is kept wet and it's rubbed into the wood.   The final wipe-down leaves a very thin coat almost dull looking coat that has sunk into the wood more than if it's just wiped-on quickly.   When dry, lightly sand with a grey scotchbrite and apply a very thin coat of satin wipe-on.  I like the looks of the finish, the easy of application and the fast drying- a bow is finished in 2 days.  A big plus is the better-half lets me finish bows with the poly inside.   The downside is the grain is not filled and it's not as rugged or water resistant as a thick coating of, say, spar poly. 

For oily woods, I rub in a coat of about #1 cut (eyeballed) super blonde shellac kinda like the first wipe-on coat above.  I try to leave a very thin dull looking coating.   When dry I don't sand for fear of cutting into the oily wood and/or leaving a blotchy surface and apply a coat or two of wipe-on poly. 

c.d.


Offline Blitzkrieg721

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This should be archived in the how to's...if not already..

Offline lebhuntfish

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  • If the wood will bend, I'll make it beautiful!
This should be archived in the how to's...if not already..

I agree! Patrick
Once an Eagle Scout, always an Eagle Scout!

Missouri, where all the best wood is! Well maybe not the straightest!

Building a bow has been the most rewarding, peaceful, and frustrating things I have ever made with my own two hands!

Offline dueb

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I would agree with that too  ;) I learned quite a bit.
If you would hit the mark, you must aim a little above it: Every arrow that flies feels the pull of the earth.
― Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

Offline PAHunter

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Progressively finer sand paper from 80 to 600.  Then tru oil, tru oil, tru oil, tru oil, tru oil, tru oil, etc.  Wool brush in-between coats.  Eventually I just rub with a rag in-between last few. 
Thanks,
Rob - Wexford, PA

"Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe". - Abe Lincoln

Offline Danzn Bar

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After tung oil and tru oil finishes dry real well try buffing with just a paper towel....provides a "softer " gloss...................IMO
DBar
Integrity is doing the right thing when no one is looking

Offline dueb

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Alright, I got another question, mostly for you oil and wax guys. When you back your bow with anything other than a different wood, like hide, sinew, linen, silk, and so on. Does that change your process of finishing?
If you would hit the mark, you must aim a little above it: Every arrow that flies feels the pull of the earth.
― Henry Wadsworth Longfellow

Offline lebhuntfish

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  • If the wood will bend, I'll make it beautiful!
Alright, I got another question, mostly for you oil and wax guys. When you back your bow with anything other than a different wood, like hide, sinew, linen, silk, and so on. Does that change your process of finishing?
A simple "Nope"  the only thing that changes for me is how long it takes to get the back smooth. Patrick
Once an Eagle Scout, always an Eagle Scout!

Missouri, where all the best wood is! Well maybe not the straightest!

Building a bow has been the most rewarding, peaceful, and frustrating things I have ever made with my own two hands!