DAMN!!!!!! Can`t Brace This Thing...--- Tiller Check

[PatM]

The bow is pyramidal, 1 1/4" wide at the fade and tapering to 1/2"  tip. I glued in about 4-5" of reflex 'cause I thought it'l take set and sattle at about 2". But that sucker bearly took any set!

I think the reasonable option is to scrap from the sides as PatM suggested but I don't have much width to play with and I don't want to screw this bow (I've worked a lot on it so far and it looked so promising...)

I'll be greatfull if you can give me detailed instruction on how to do it right.

Thanks

Dor

I did not mean to reduce width but rather thickness of that side of the belly.

[arachnid]

As I said, I don't want to use heat because of the chance the biw de-laminate. I'll scrap the width of the limbs, I just want to be sure with the shape I want to get and what I'm going to do...

[Markus]

Could try this, on a table or bench place a block of 2x6 close to each bow end bow's back facing down. Use a trigger clamp at the bow's center to press the bow's back down to the table while steadying it. Then hook on a string. It will then be bent to about normal brace height. Markus

[arachnid]

[/quote]
 I did not mean to reduce width but rather thickness of that side of the belly

 So if I understand currectly, I should get a sort of uneven belly, thicker on one side the the other.  Would that help correct the tip misaligment by forcing the limb to bend more the right?

[PatM]

That's the idea.

[lebhuntfish]

I think PatM is on to something there. Patrick

[mullet]

What Pat is talking about will make the right side weaker and the limb will move that way. And the string alignment will start to move back towards the center of the bow.

[bradsmith2010]

when I have a bow with reflex, that is fussy,,, I do not brace it low to allowing for the string stretch etc,,and so it does not flip on itself,, if it looks like it is going to pull to a low brace(when it will flip and try to cut off your finger),, I stop and twist the string up and try again,, if it is a stubborn heavy bow,, I will tie on leather nocks below the string nocks,, and use a long string to bend the bow to put the string on,, you can adjust the limb twist as you tiller,,,  making mostly self bows limb twist or alignment issues are just normal,, and once the bow is strung,, can be evaluated and resolved if need be,, i think exercising the  limbs is good right now,, you have to move the tips quite a bit to string it,, and getting the wood used to bending is a good idea before stringing it the first time,,

[Eric Krewson]

I would bend the handle to line the limbs up.

[arachnid]

That's the idea.

Well thats an original way of thinking! Thanks Pat!
Just to be sure, wouldn't forcing the limb to twist cause an uneven stress on the limb? Can't it cause it to chrysal?

[Del the cat]

Depending on the type of glue you used, it's hard (or impossible) to heat correct a lam bow. Get it hot enough, and it will delaminate. I believe your problem is a design flaw. Too narrow, and too highly reflexed = lateral stability issues. I ran into this problem trying to make reflexed warbows. As a result, I either use a small amount of reflex or none at all.

Whoops... my bad I was thinking it was just a backed bow. Forgot it was a tri-lam
Del

[arachnid]

Well, I got it to lo brace and both limbs kick to the side pretty badly... I`ll post a picture later....

Seems like an easy fix with heat, if it was a self bow... any chance I can fix it with heat and avoid delamination?

Remember its ipe (haven`t seen ipe heat bent before...)


 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Im glad that's your head ache and not mine, this time. I doubt it can be recovered, that's just my hunch.

[bradsmith2010]

i would try scraping like Pat suggested,, it will still shoot well with a little limb twist as the bow settles in it may shift some in  your favor,, dont panic,   

[DC]

If Pat's suggestion doesn't work do you have the length to cut it in half and splice it back together straight. Although getting a straight splice is a talent all it's own.