Author Topic: Heat treating trade offs  (Read 3928 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline joachimM

  • Member
  • Posts: 675
  • Good - better - broken
Re: Heat treating trade offs
« Reply #15 on: February 06, 2015, 10:49:14 am »
Heat treatment makes the wood more brittle. For a belly thats rarely problematic unless you have an accidental dry fire at full draw like i had when the string of a just tillered bow slipped off.
Belly snapped to pieces...

Compression-weak, tension-strong woods benefit most, like elm, hickory, EHH, american hornbeam, sweet cherry, ...

Offline huisme

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,036
  • I'm Marc, but not that Marc.
Re: Heat treating trade offs
« Reply #16 on: February 06, 2015, 02:24:32 pm »
On the other hand, a molle I tillered to 30#@28" was overdrawn to ~30" and dry fired when my dummy of a cousin got his giant hands on it and the toasted belly didn't even take set. I don't let the bow sit for more than two hour past cool (on the form for best bend retention) before getting back to work-- but then I left one of my locusts in the Nevada sun for the week I was building it and it still shoots great and hasn't taken set up in Canada.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline Sidewinder

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,946
Re: Heat treating trade offs
« Reply #17 on: February 12, 2015, 01:28:22 am »
I think that the heat treat is very beneficial. Early on I tried it over coals but it was too hard to be consistent, so I bought a heat gun, built a form and now were talking consistent. Its the only way I will do it now. I know osage does'nt need it as much as elm and others but I think it does help some. Its just more noticeable on some of the other woods the amazing transformation it produces.
"You know a tree by the fruit it bears"   God