Author Topic: Writing on bows? (Read 9796 times)

Pappy · « **Reply #15 on:** January 23, 2008, 01:37:12 pm »

I use a fine tip sharpie and then just finish over with Tru Oil,don't rub the first coat until
it dries then just go on with the regular finish.My hand wrighting is awful so my wife dose
all the wrighting.I tell her what to wright and she take care of it.She even comes up with
the name now and then.

Pappy

uwe · « **Reply #16 on:** January 23, 2008, 01:57:28 pm »

Okay, I will test it on a scrap piece of wood.

Hillbilly · « **Reply #17 on:** January 23, 2008, 01:59:17 pm »

Same here, I use a fine-tipped Sharpie, or if the bow is dyed a dark color, a white paint pen.

DanaM · « **Reply #18 on:** January 23, 2008, 02:12:58 pm »

Same as Pappy except I like to put a coat or two of finish on first, makes for a smoother writing surface
and if ya mess up its easier to sand off

uwe · « **Reply #19 on:** January 23, 2008, 02:16:13 pm »

Is Tru Oil an american marque? I have shellack, tung oil (made of a chinese nut) for example.

Marc St Louis · « **Reply #20 on:** January 23, 2008, 03:27:22 pm »

I use a water base marker for all writing on the bow then go over that with a couple coats of Tung oil, then shellac. The shellac will smear the water base marker but the Tung oil will not which is why I use the Tung oil first.

adb · « **Reply #21 on:** January 23, 2008, 05:06:41 pm »

Hey, uwe

Tru Oil is a gun stock finish, made by Birchwood Casey. It's a semi gloss, and gives a very deep, nice finish. You have to apply multiple coats, and drying time is long. It's worth the effort... it looks fantastic.

Marc St Louis · « **Reply #22 on:** January 23, 2008, 07:13:35 pm »

Unfortunately Tru Oil has a Linseed base and Linseed oil has no moisture resistance. I don't consider it as an acceptable finish for a bow.

koan · « **Reply #23 on:** January 23, 2008, 07:38:10 pm »

Marc, your absolutely right about linseed oil, Im not a big fan of it, however, tru-oil has more than just linseed, thats just the base as you pointed out. Its got some good stuff in there.

....Brian

Sabanim · « **Reply #24 on:** January 24, 2008, 01:13:35 am »

I use the clear address labels and print out the whatever I want to put on the bow with my computor.
You just stick the label on it and seal over it with Eurathane.

Bill

PK · « **Reply #25 on:** January 24, 2008, 06:08:52 am »

i spent about 10 buck on various pens without any satisfaction, I ready A thread on the forum so I bought a quill and ink and now I can say that I'm happy with the results. I know I need to work on my neetness but At least I can see it now.

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DanaM · « **Reply #26 on:** January 24, 2008, 11:10:37 am »

Quote from: Marc St Louis on January 23, 2008, 07:13:35 pm

Unfortunately Tru Oil has a Linseed base and Linseed oil has no moisture resistance. I don't consider it as an acceptable finish for a bow.

I wasn't aware of this Marc, I've recently switched to tung oil with a few coats of tru oil on top if I want a shine.
The reason I switched is cost, I got tired of paying $6 for two ounces of tru oil.

Marc St Louis · « **Reply #27 on:** January 24, 2008, 11:23:57 am »

It's not a problem if you live in a dry area but if you live where the RH is fairly high then I prefer a finish that has a good moisture resistance. That's why I use a 3 layer finish as I believe it has better moisture resistance, it is more work though

Pappy · « **Reply #28 on:** January 24, 2008, 12:30:14 pm »

I got the 2 but what is the 3rd layer Marc, ???I have always used Tru Oil but might reconsider.
I do a lot of Hickory and it is damp here especially in the summer.

Pappy

markinengland · « **Reply #29 on:** January 24, 2008, 01:29:41 pm »

Edding do a brilliant pen for writing on bows. It is the Edding 8404 Special - Aerospace Marker. As it is for the Aerospace industry it writes on just about anything and is very durable. I found out about them from a friend who makes bows and is involved in making parts for the aero industry.
It has a fine tip, has water based pigment ink and is resistant to many solvents and cotings. Once dry it is light resistant and water resistant on most surfaces.
You can pick them up on ebay for not a lot of money.
Mark in England

Primitive Archer