Author Topic: Perry reflex glue up . . . progress  (Read 12980 times)

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Offline Knoll

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Re: Perry reflex glue up . . . progress
« Reply #30 on: February 08, 2015, 02:08:42 pm »
Understand logic re wrapping tubes from both directions.
Question . . . with the wood kinda sealed up by rubber tubing, is a PVA adhesive gonna take long time to cure?
... alone in distant woods or fields, in unpretending sproutlands or pastures tracked by rabbits, even in a bleak and, to most, cheerless day .... .  I suppose that this value, in my case, is equivalent to what others get by churchgoing & prayer.  Hank Thoreau, 1857

Offline PatM

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Re: Perry reflex glue up . . . progress
« Reply #31 on: February 08, 2015, 02:15:11 pm »
Much of the drying is the moisture from the glue going into the wood rather than out through the glueline.
 

Offline PatM

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Re: Perry reflex glue up . . . FAIL!
« Reply #32 on: February 08, 2015, 02:20:10 pm »
Not sure how well the first set of overlays are going to hold up.



Why is that pat?
Their length will make it  necessary to move the outer limb bend inboard of the point where the overlay meets the limb.
 As long as that is addressed then it isn't a problem. It just seems like a risky choice.

Offline bubby

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Re: Perry reflex glue up . . . progress
« Reply #33 on: February 08, 2015, 02:50:36 pm »
As long as thickness taper is addressed it's not a problem I've made lots of overlays this way to create a flipped tip
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline PatM

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Re: Perry reflex glue up . . . progress
« Reply #34 on: February 08, 2015, 03:05:39 pm »
Yes, that's what I said.
 Since  just getting the main part of the bow glued together is a bit of an issue so far lengthy overlays seemed like an additional potential problem.

Offline Dan Perry

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Re: Perry reflex glue up . . . progress
« Reply #35 on: February 09, 2015, 09:15:20 pm »
It seems like you were disappointed in the amount of held reflex and reacted by adding the glue on tip overlay recurves to try to make up for it. Since it seems thicker than finished dimensions, it will gain reflex back as you approach your finished tiller. You really don't need more than 1 1/2" to get a good performance boost. With a thicker limb at glue up, you already compressed enough wood on the back.

My favorite way of gluing these up is using narrow blocks of wood that poke out an inch or so on each side, and using rubber bands looped over the ends, and drawn under the limb and twisted over the other side of the block to hook it, then back under the the limb to loop over the far end. Make the blocks narrow, and put them close together. You can add additional rubber bands if you need to. I still use clamps at the handle, but still with the blocks. This will keep the edges from curling.

I never take a chance with glue. I buy fresh glue that hasn't frozen. With the glue you said you used, you have to have everything in place and move fast!

Have fun.

Dan Perry

Offline Knoll

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Re: Perry reflex glue up . . . progress
« Reply #36 on: February 10, 2015, 12:55:48 am »
Thanks all.  Have lotsa options when begin the next one.
Mr Perry, we don't see many posts by you.  So thanks much for chiming in on this one.  While I was a surprised glue line didn't hold more reflex, I'd been planning to do the glue-on tip blocks anyway.  Curious to see what combined impact would be in finished product.
Pin nocks are now cut and back/belly edges in process of being rounded.
Fun will soon begin!
« Last Edit: February 10, 2015, 01:00:33 am by Knoll »
... alone in distant woods or fields, in unpretending sproutlands or pastures tracked by rabbits, even in a bleak and, to most, cheerless day .... .  I suppose that this value, in my case, is equivalent to what others get by churchgoing & prayer.  Hank Thoreau, 1857