ERC advice

[Mo_coon-catcher]

I just got an ERC stave roughed out and drying that I just cut this weekend and from everything I've been reading on here lately it's got me a little worried. A friend of mine is wanting it 45 lbs at 28". Right now the stave is 2" wide and about 68". It's definitely getting sinew backed and I plan to take the sapwood down to the point that some of the heart wood will show since he wants color. Though I will say that will draw knifing it while still green, the sap wood seems much less brittle than the heart. oh and the grain is almost perfectly straight with no knots. With all this information, what dimensions would you suggest to help it hold up? I'm thinking full length and 1 1/2 - 1 5/8 wide in a flat bow profile making the handle bend. How does that sound?

Thanks for the advice,
Kyle

[Mo_coon-catcher]

Here's the only picture I have of it at the moment. The cherry on the left is for another guy in St Joe. It's got a few cracks from splitting it and some propeller twist, but nothing I can't handle. All the cedar I got is straight like that with some having knots and all the cherry has atleast 90 degrees of prop twist so we'll see how that goes. The other pic is the haul I got this weekend of cherry, cedar, and black locust.

Kyle

[PEARL DRUMS]

My advice would be to build two bows simultaneously. One will blow, if your lucky the second wont. Use all the width and length you have.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

Well, I guess I'll rough out another one tomorrow. So it can be drying too. If one blows is it possible to pull the sinew off and reuse it?

Kyle

[Danzn Bar]

If one blows is it possible to pull the sinew off and reuse it?

Kyle

I would assume you can soak it in water and it would come apart as long as you used hide glue, and a little washing, you would have your sinew back...but I sure would like someone on here with experience to confirm.  I'm thinking about a sinew backed ERC and sure would like to recover the sinew if it explodes.
DBar

[mullet]

I would leave it like you have it. 68", 2" wide. If these bow breakers have already scared you, back it with sinew before you start bending it. When it starts to get tight on the tillering tree, quit pulling on it. I've made some real, nice shooting Eastern Woodland style bows from Cedar, leaving them bend through the handle 68-70" long and 2" at the fades.

[RyanY]

I know it's ERC we're talking about but would you really want to do all the work to sinew back a 68" long and 2" wide bow? That's a ton of sinew just to hope that it survives. Sounds like a waste to me. From what I've seen of others bows, rawhide is the way to go if you're going to back it. I mean if it's going to blow then there's not much can do to save it so why not do less work? I think your best bet is to just take your time and make sure every step of the build process is as perfect as possible. No imperfections on the back, ring chased, make sure tiller is perfect from the start. Also I'd suggest trying to use the mass principle. Keep the weight high, almost as though you're overbuilding the bow. If you've got enough mass and do those other things then I don't think you'll have to worry. Also I'd make sure the belly of the bow has a decent crown. Might take some more set but it'll take some pressure off the back of the bow.

[Pappy]

Helmet /and eye protection maybe even some leathers Sorry couldn't resist. 
   Pappy

[blackhawk]

Make it no less than 1 3/4" wide at that length,and rawhide back it. And GO READ my latest post in Pearl Drums thread. (Page 4)

[mullet]

All of the ones that I have made were unbacked.

[Mo_coon-catcher]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. I think I'll definitely use rawhide. With as large as the back would be that's a lot of sinew going on. And keep a second in reserve in case of detonation. I wonder if putting an inch or so of deflex would help relieve some stress and help it hold together.

Kyle

[Sasquatch]

I would not go down to the heart wood.  Leave the back as untouched as you can. I personally think that when we try to go down a couple rings we simply cant get it as perfect as the tree laid it.  That and MC might be the cause of many of the breaks with this wood.   I would also use sinew, raw flax, or linen fabric. I don't think that raw hide is enough. I have read a lot about these materials and linen(flax) can provide plenty of protection, for a lot less $.