Machined brass take down sleeve

[Aaron H]

I made this threaded brass take down sleeve today at work.  Took me about 4 hours, and that was screwing up the female end and having to remake it.  It measures 1.500" on the OD, 1.125" on the ID, and 5" total length.  I also single pointed 14 pitch threads about .010" deep into the bore for a tooth for the wood to grab onto.  The threads measure 1"-14-RH.  I also machined in a .050" shoulder because I plan to wrap all but the last .300" with leather, and that should make the leather and brass shoulder flush to each other. 

I plan to make a take down sometime in the next year, just thought I would be ready whenever the urge strikes me. 

I have to give credit to asharrow because I saw him build one similar to this out of steel.

[koan]

Thats purdy cool!

[Del the cat]

Is the recessed area to allow for a leather covering?
I hope you worked through your lunch break to make up for it  
Del

[Jim Davis]

Nice looking work. May I suggest drilling out the male threaded part to reduce weight? I have started doing that with my steel ones.

I wonder  if the epoxy will stick to the brass??? It doesn't really need to though. You can put a small pin or screw through the sleeve into the wood to anchor it if needed. I have had to do that.

If you single-pointed the female  thread you are more ambitious than I am. I use a tap in the lathe after drilling and boring. I do single-point the male thread.

I also wonder if the 1-1/2" diameter is going to feel like quite a handful, especially with the added thickness of the leather.

Anyway, it's great to see someone applying their skills!

Jim

[Aaron H]

Is the recessed area to allow for a leather covering?
I hope you worked through your lunch break to make up for it  
Del

Del, Yes, the recessed area is for the leather to sit flush with the brass. We were pretty slow today, I had to find something to pass the time 

Nice looking work. May I suggest drilling out the male threaded part to reduce weight? I have started doing that with my steel ones.

I wonder  if the epoxy will stick to the brass??? It doesn't really need to though. You can put a small pin or screw through the sleeve into the wood to anchor it if needed. I have had to do that.

If you single-pointed the female  thread you are more ambitious than I am. I use a tap in the lathe after drilling and boring. I do single-point the male thread.

I also wonder if the 1-1/2" diameter is going to feel like quite a handful, especially with the added thickness of the leather.

Anyway, it's great to see someone applying their skills!

Jim- I'm pretty sure the wood will stick to the brass with epoxy, but that is why I turned in some tooth, for reassurance. I thought about drilling out the center, maybe I will do that on my next one.  The 1.500" is the shouldered area, the rest is 1.450", which is where the leather will lay.  I think it feels good in the hand, I will know more whenever I finish the bow.  Maybe I will end up making one different next time.

[Aaron H]

I just weighed it, it reads just over 1 lb.   

[Shaneisneato]

You ever use this in a bow?

[Aaron H]

Not yet Shane.   One day....

[bow101]

Nice work, kind of touchy on cold days been metal and all.  I may build a fiberglass type handle this summer.  In one past issue of PA magazine there is 2 write ups on takedowns.  You should get that copy..!   

[Aaron H]

Bow101- I thought about holding a cold piece of brass in the fall, that is why I cut a recess in most of it and left a shoulder on either end.  I plan on wrapping it with leather, and the brass shoulders should sit flush with the leather.