Author Topic: Minimum bandsaw power  (Read 6704 times)

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Offline lebhuntfish

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Re: Minimum bandsaw power
« Reply #15 on: January 05, 2015, 12:37:27 pm »
I have a 12", 1/2 hp, Craftsman model #113.243310 bandsaw- bought it new ~32 years ago for woodworking.   With it I've roughed out maybe 30 hickory and oak selfbows from staves up to 3” wide, ripped off ~200 of lams, bellies and backings from 1.5” to 2" thick hickory, IPE, maple, osage, cherry, walnut and oak boards and profiled and cut handles in around 60 bows.  Roughing out bows from wide hickory staves really pushes the limits of the saw but it’s doable if cut like in the attached sketch.   

The keys things are tuning the saw when needed (more frequently than one might think....), a sharp/clean blade, not feeding too fast and practice (e.g. saw way outside of the line or on a scrap of same or similar wood).   For tuning, there's lots on the web but I've found Mark Duginske's "Band Saw Handbook" the best source.   Cool blocks help a lot also since they can be set really close to the blade.  For blades, I use 1/2", 3 tpi raker tooth- mostly .025" thick.

That said, I’d definitely spring for a 14”, 1 hp band saw if I had space in the shop for it- and the required (IMHO) dust collector.   As it is, a big and frequently emptied :( shop vac handles the 12” saw  (a plus for the 12”, 1/2 hp saw ;)).

c.d.

Very good info bud. I really like the sketch on how to cut your stave! Patrick 
Once an Eagle Scout, always an Eagle Scout!

Missouri, where all the best wood is! Well maybe not the straightest!

Building a bow has been the most rewarding, peaceful, and frustrating things I have ever made with my own two hands!

Offline Jim Davis

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Re: Minimum bandsaw power
« Reply #16 on: January 05, 2015, 03:07:11 pm »
CDP has one of good older Craftsman saws. I cut staves the same way. It is important to keep a firm steady grip on the stave while sawing since the stave never has a flat surface on the table.

Jim
Jim Davis

Kentucky--formerly Maine

Offline cdpbrewer

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Re: Minimum bandsaw power
« Reply #17 on: January 05, 2015, 04:44:06 pm »
Good point about the steady grip Jim. 

Forgot to mention in my first post that the same old model Craftsman pops up on craigs list in these parts fairly often for around $150- not much more than a new bench top models.  I see many more of those on CL....

c.d.

Offline IndianGuy

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Re: Minimum bandsaw power
« Reply #18 on: January 05, 2015, 05:26:28 pm »
The problem with most saws these days is the wheels are made of pot metal and don't hold up, I bougt a new reputable named 14" band saw a few years ago with a 1.5 hp motor on my 3rd piece of Osage the upper wheel cracked and disintegrated into dozens of pieces. It was unrepairable. The old saws have steel wheels and are better quality. I also have the bench top craftsman band saw with the half horse motor and this saw is good for nothing but cutting arrows to length.invest the extra money and buy a good saw and look for one with solid metal or steel wheels.
E

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Minimum bandsaw power
« Reply #19 on: January 05, 2015, 11:21:10 pm »
I've built hundreds of bows and never used a bandsaw.
I do use a quality bench grade sander but even that is not needed.
I've used a hatchet for roughing.
Where your space is limited consider hand tools.
Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline George Tsoukalas

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Re: Minimum bandsaw power
« Reply #20 on: January 05, 2015, 11:22:23 pm »
Oops.Missed the laminate part.
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!