heat treating ipe?

[Tommytinker]

Has anyone had any success heat treating ipe before backing it? i know it doesn't heat bend well at all, but might a bit of a toasting improve performance? I know it is already extremely compression resistant, but could it become more so with a toasting? Maybe TRY to induce SOME reflex in the heat treating step, then back it with boo, hickory or sinew (sinew backed ipe is something I'm dying to try for some reason, don't now why!) and pull it into a little more reflex in the glue up/sinew job? I'm thinking like 56 - 60" long, working handle, paralel limbs for two thirds the last third tapering out real thin to static, super skinny tips?

[Tommytinker]

No thoughts?

[adb]

I think heat treating ipe would be a complete waste of time and of little benefit IMHO. It is already one of the strongest woods in compression. I believe heat treating has the greatest benefit in the whitewoods, but it's not something I've done much of.

[Parnell]

I'm going with adb on this one.  I'd say that heat treating Ipe would be of little use.  Any reflex is going to be glued in.

My 2 cents on the sinew is that it may be trouble because the wood is so oily.  I'd imagine the hide glue would be more likely to lift.

Don't know for sure, though! 

Any which way, it's gonna be awful tough to beat boo backed ipe with a little Perry reflex.

Good luck!

[PatM]

If you are going to back it with sinew it makes sense to uses a wood backing first(which will then become the core). Many have stated that Ipe does not do well with hide glue so gluing on a white wood backing first gives a better glue surface.

 if you want to use TB for the sinew you may have better luck.

[steve b.]

I made an IPE selfbow and it cracked where the grain ran out the back.  I made another and sinew backed it with hideglue.  It lasted longer but cracked also at the runout.  I remember experimenting with degreasing the back with alcohol.   Ultimately it stuck to the wood just fine and months later I tried to remove it to save the sinew and junk the wood.  I remember thinking that what worked best was to wipe with alcohol,  size the back with hideglue, let it set for 24 hours or so, remove the hideglue, and resize and sinew back.
If I was to do it again and I had a test piece of ipe I would try that experiment again.

[mikekeswick]

You can use collagen glue on any oily wood. I've had great success with it on lignum vitae (THE oiliest wood there is),cocobolo and ipe. Lye or acetone to degrease first then plenty of very thin sizing coats with drying inbetween - until the wood is glossy.
Heat treating is a complete waste of time. Try it for giggles if you want.....keep the tar it's makes great pitch type glue 

[adams89]

I have heat treated it with good results, it does not bent easily but, you can harden it and induce light reflex with dry heat, plus you can scrape of more material which makes the bow lighter.
do it before you glue it up.

[PatM]

You can use collagen glue on any oily wood. I've had great success with it on lignum vitae (THE oiliest wood there is),cocobolo and ipe. Lye or acetone to degrease first then plenty of very thin sizing coats with drying inbetween - until the wood is glossy.
Heat treating is a complete waste of time. Try it for giggles if you want.....keep the tar it's makes great pitch type glue 

You just told us a short while ago that Ipe hated natural glue. 

[dragonman]

was just reading this thread and thought i'd throw in my 2pence (cents) worth....I have glued ipe with home made hide glue and sinew backed it with the same and had no problems.....I did degrease thoroughly with acetone first though

[Sidmand]

... Try it for giggles if you want.....keep the tar it's makes great pitch type glue 

Little off topic but - I have a bunch of scrap Ipe now, are you saying you can get sap from it by heating it up?  Cause if so, I need me some pitch glue for some other projects

[adb]

I don't think so. I've burned scrap ipe, and it produced so sappy-like substance in the process. It did make the best coals of any fire I've ever seen.

[PatM]

It has to just be hot but not at the ignition point. It should sweat out a creosote like substance,

[Sidmand]

i will break out the heat gun and sweat it then, see what happens.  If not, I can always burn it, got a little camp stove I can make some bacon on.  Cant go wrong with bacon.

[mikekeswick]

What I was meaning is that it is possible but you'll have to have your methods dialled.
Of course the oilier the wood the less receptive to a water based glue it's going to be.
When I said sap I should have said tar! Every piece i've messed about with in the fire has had tons of the stuff ooze out before ignition.