Author Topic: dry heat and tightbond 2  (Read 2651 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline IndianKid

  • Member
  • Posts: 55
dry heat and tightbond 2
« on: December 28, 2014, 12:02:34 pm »
So I let my stave relax a few days, hit the lateral bends in the limbs
with dry heat and convinced the limbs straight!  (Or so I though! !)
One large dog chew soaked and rawhide backing is firmly glued
on with tightbond 2... a few days later I start tillering
and now that I'm just about done i see my limbs are way more stubborn
than I gave them credit for !!!!

My options as I see them are to try localized heat in the handle
and try to correct the tracking there or try heating the limbs again.

Would heating the limbs ruin the rawhide bond ?



Offline IndianKid

  • Member
  • Posts: 55
Re: dry heat and tightbond 2
« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2014, 12:15:02 pm »
Here is a pic...

Offline Springbuck

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,545
Re: dry heat and tightbond 2
« Reply #2 on: December 28, 2014, 01:03:30 pm »
  Eventually, the heat will release the TB II eventually.  I have gotten away with it before on a hickory/BL recurve that needed correction, but also had it fail back when I didn't have the sense to try to stop a hinge in a different bow.

  Thisdepends on how thick the wood is, and how much heat, how long.  The good thing is that if it lifts, you should only have to sand the surfaces a bit and reglue (without soaking.  if it is dry, they should fit each other now.

  I have heard that TB II and III have trouble sticking to themselves if you try to glue wet glue to dry glue, but haven't had much trouble myself.

  But, a simple crank over at the handle might do it.  I can't tell from the pic.

Offline bubby

  • Member
  • Posts: 11,054
Re: dry heat and tightbond 2
« Reply #3 on: December 28, 2014, 01:58:53 pm »
How far off the handle is the string?
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline bradsmith2010

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,187
Re: dry heat and tightbond 2
« Reply #4 on: December 28, 2014, 04:14:40 pm »
well seems like if you need to get it to track right,, heat it and try, it might work as stated,, worse case,, you re glue, if the tracking is not that off, ,then tiller as is,,  shoot it,,,,if you cant live with it,, then heat it and do what you need to do,,

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: dry heat and tightbond 2
« Reply #5 on: December 28, 2014, 07:09:58 pm »
Recently I fixed a crooked recurve I glued a. Few years ago with a c clamp and a weight.it was a maple back elm R/D and it worked well.albeit elm takes very little heat to make a adjustment.been working with wonky staves lately and I find a little twist at the tip will go a long way for getting string alinement. Side nocks will also help.to me it doesn't what it looks like but rather how it sends arrows down range.
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline IndianKid

  • Member
  • Posts: 55
Re: dry heat and tightbond 2
« Reply #6 on: December 30, 2014, 02:08:50 pm »
Well, bow said Crack ! Some how I knew #1 wouldn't get there lol :)
Learned more than I thought I would, now eagerly on #2 ...

Thanks to all who helped me this far :)


Offline okiecountryboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 502
Re: dry heat and tightbond 2
« Reply #7 on: December 31, 2014, 01:29:24 pm »
Lots of good info from these Vets on PA. They brought me from total frustration to....well, still breaking wood, but better every time.

Thanks PA folks.

Ron
God, honor, country, bows, and guns.