« previous next »
Pages: [1]

Author Topic: My first Molly  (Read 3951 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline OTDEAN

  • Member
  • Posts: 140
My first Molly
« on: November 18, 2014, 04:47:22 pm »
Hi all,

I have a cut out a molly and its stored in my nice warm house horizontally, its approx 72" ntn with 10" levers. The wood was well seasoned before I cut it to shape and the bow has had staggered exposure to different moisture so no worries with the seasoning so far.

I have not reduced the thickness taper yet, the working arms are 2 inch wide, the wood is Ash from the UK.  My stiff handle is 4" with 2 x 2" fades so 8" none working section.   The thickness so far from handle is approx 1 1/2" at handle to 3/4 at end of the levers.

I know the bow taper will depend on how the bow is during tiller and I will find that out as I draw the bow, what I want ask is, are the levers normally thinner or thicker than the working part of the bow arm nearest towards the bow tips? 

I assume that you make a transition from working limb to lever via  fade just like you do from a handle to working limb?  To achieve this, the working limb needs to be thicker than the lever ?  What are peoples experiences with this, any tips?  I am not sure to have levers that do not move at all or levers that work just a bit?

Look forward to hearing all opinions.

Dean

Dean  :P
Logged

Offline bubby

  • Member
  • Posts: 11,054
Re: My first Molly
« Reply #1 on: November 18, 2014, 05:36:27 pm »
I dont like mine to work but they don't have to be much thicker to not bend, that prolly helped bunches huh maybe bad chris will chime in he's the guy to give you the answer
Logged
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline turtle

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,069
  • PA1007207
Re: My first Molly
« Reply #2 on: November 18, 2014, 06:17:37 pm »
The lever should be thicker than the working limb. Some like the lever to work a little and some don't.
Logged
Steve Bennett

Offline OTDEAN

  • Member
  • Posts: 140
Re: My first Molly
« Reply #3 on: November 18, 2014, 06:24:43 pm »
Cheers for the answers lads!
Logged

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: My first Molly
« Reply #4 on: November 18, 2014, 06:53:19 pm »
I think 72"ntn is wee bit long for a molly.if you have the wood I would go 65 ttt, 2" @ the fades down to 1-3/4" at the upper fade transition.taper down to 7/8" on a 1-1/4 measured lenght,then down to 3/8 tips and keeping the rest the same.i really like to spindle sand the levers eary on having them almost finished before tillering.as long as you are about 3/16 thicker on the lever before sanding it should be ok.the levers flex most times if the mass is reduced properly even if it noticeable
Logged
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline bushboy

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,256
Re: My first Molly
« Reply #5 on: November 18, 2014, 06:58:11 pm »
I meant not noticeable.good luck,have fun!
Logged
Some like motorboats,I like kayaks,some like guns,I like bows,but not the wheelie type.

Offline huisme

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,036
  • I'm Marc, but not that Marc.
Re: My first Molly
« Reply #6 on: November 18, 2014, 07:29:57 pm »
The levers do have to be thicker than the working limb. I leave them an inch thick and a third of an inch wide umtil I have the bow braced, at which point I reduce them to about three times the limb thickness and establish the width taper from the third inch just out of the fade to close to an eighth inch at the nock. Once I reach full draw I usually reduce the thickness until there's just a shadow of a bend.

I don't taper my working limbs width just for the sake of authenticity, its fine to have some taper.
Logged
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline SLIMBOB

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,759
  • Deplorable Slim
Re: My first Molly
« Reply #7 on: November 18, 2014, 07:50:38 pm »
Never made one from Ash, but 1 inch thick at the lever fade tapering to 3/4 inch at the string groove is where I would start with Osage.  This is the advice I got from Blackhawk on one I did a few years ago.  I had plenty of room to thin it out as I worked it down to finished dimensions so I would think you will be good.  Leave it a little thick just for margin of error.  The working limb will be much thinner.  Start your thickness taper at the end of the working limb, (really a little before the end as you want a smooth transition) and through the 2 inch fade, increase the thickness to 1 inch or a little better.
Logged
Liberty, In God We Trust, E Pluribus Unum.  Distinctly American Values.

Offline bubby

  • Member
  • Posts: 11,054
Re: My first Molly
« Reply #8 on: November 18, 2014, 08:07:25 pm »
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,44724.msg603885.html#msg603885
here's one I did a while back, you can see the levers don't have to be much thickera 1/8" or even a 1/16" will do the job although the latter may be pushing it ;D
Logged
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Springbuck

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,545
Re: My first Molly
« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2014, 07:57:02 pm »
Quote from: bubby on November 18, 2014, 08:07:25 pm
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,44724.msg603885.html#msg603885
here's one I did a while back, you can see the levers don't have to be much thickera 1/8" or even a 1/16" will do the job although the latter may be pushing it ;D

Correct.  Thickness adds up to stiffness fast.  If you have a 1/2" thick limb, fade it up 1/16" and it will be twice as stiff as just below it, but I'd still go for 1/8".

When tillering I like to leave that outer limb big and stiff and bring them in last.  I also like to make them reverse trapezoid, roughly hexogonal, or oval cross section.
Logged
Pages: [1]
« previous next »