Help with a chip

[sleek]

You dont need shoulder like fades. You could make your fades long and slender.  In your case, as long and slender as the tear out. That way you cut the tear completely out the bow and you got long sexy slim fades. Draw a line at an angle from the outside edge of your grip and angle it to the end of the tear out. Then send another pic before you do any cuting.

Or if not that, make a cut out arrow rest and follow that line to allow the rest to fade back into the bow.

[SLIMBOB]

Sleeks advice is good.  I will answer your question as best I can.  You can make either an...

A.  Static non working handle.  It doesn't bend at all, and has flair outs that are the transitions from the narrow handle at 1 inch wide or so to a wider working limb, say 1 1/2 inches wide. Your flair out happens over that short area at the fade, 1 1/2 to 2 inch area or longer as Sleek is suggesting.  This gives you two working limbs separated by the static handle.

B.  Bendy or working handle.  The grip area is often the same width as the working limb.  You can narrow it some for comfort sake but you wont need flair outs like you have above.  The handle works (bends) so that you have in essence one smooth bend from tip to tip right thru the handle.

I think "B" will solve your problem.  Having said that, Sleeks idea may work also.  Long slender flair outs so that you can get past the split.  Better pictures with more detail and dimensions will help in offering better advice.

[bradsmith2010]

a bend in the handle bow is about 1 1/8 to 1 1/4   wide at the handle and stays about that wide till it narrows at at the tips.. it is thickest at the handle as it does not bend much there,, it is a good design,, many Native bows are of this design, it will allow for a longer draw as well, cause all the wood is working,, I like them and think they are simple and effective and have great cast when made well,,   the long fades are nice too