Author Topic: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?  (Read 12329 times)

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Offline Comancheria

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Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« on: November 16, 2014, 12:07:26 am »
OK, I have done enough reading to know:

1) I don't really need one
2) I can ruin wood (or my left hand) very easily
And 3) if I get one, it doesn't need to be a GF

But that having been said, if you were going to own only one hatchet for bow making, would you choose A) the GF tiny belt hatchet with 3/4 pound head and 10 inch handle,  or B) the GF Carving Axe with 2 1/2 pound head and 14 inch handle?

Thanks,

Russ
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline Comancheria

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2014, 12:10:20 am »
(Emoticon was a typo!)
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline Zion

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2014, 12:58:14 am »
Honestly? go to a garage sale and pick up some old, rusted heads for cheap. you can easily make a handle and restore the head. You'd be surprised what you can find, i got a Hults Bruks hatchet head out of an old barn, which is now my #1 tool. Of course a gransfors is awesome quality and you can do whatever you want but buying the old stuff is a hell of a lot cheaper lol.
The secret of life is learning to make your own luck.

Offline Comancheria

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2014, 01:18:44 am »
I hear you, Zion.  If I still lived in a large city, I would probably hit the garage and estate
Sales more often.  What is your opinion with regard, not to the GB part of the question but to the very light head versus the 2 1/2 pound?

Best regards,

Russ
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline Adam

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2014, 01:19:19 am »
I have the Small Forest Axe and love it.  The size is perfect for me.  The handle is long enough to be useful when camping, but short enough to use like a hatchet if I choke up on it.  It seemed to be the most versatile of the sizes I tried. I didn't really "need" it either, but there's a certain pride of ownership and just plain fun using a really well made tool.  I had looked at them at a store for a long time before I decided to buy it.  The thing that convinced me was that the forger's initials stamped on the head are the same as mine.

mikekeswick

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2014, 01:44:26 am »
The small forest axe 100% - It is a thing of beauty and balance. Perfect weight for bow making. It will cut down the tree and then take it to floor tiller or further depending on how much you've used axes.
I've got the Hunter's Axe, the Small Forest and my latest addition the Wilderness Axe (Ray Mears signature axe). In a week or so the American Felling Axe is going to join my collection. For bow making it would always be the Small Forest i'd pick up.
I just love how they come sharp enough to shave with. This sharpness is so easy to maintain, the steel is just fabulous  :)
As you might be able to guess I like Granfors axe.

Offline DavidV

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #6 on: November 16, 2014, 11:00:10 am »
My most used hatchet is 1 1/4# and it could even be heavier.
Springfield, MO

Offline Comancheria

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #7 on: November 16, 2014, 11:24:09 am »
Thanks, everyone.  Adam, I agree with your statement about pride of ownership.

Mike, I am a little surprised that your three acquisitions so far are so close to each other in head weight and handle length.  (Of course, the American Felling Axe will be the Big Kahuna)!

I am also surprised at both your choices of the SFA for bow making.  I had thought more of a broad-bitted "carving" axe.  But I will look long and hard at it now.

I use axes for firewood and have been thinking along the lines of:
Tiny Belt Hatchet
Large Carving Axe
Small Forest Axe OR Carpenter's Axe
Scandinavian Forest Axe

But I was really thinking of the first two for bows.  I know a couple of folks on previous threads have opted for the large carving axe.  Sounds like from what both of you and now David say, the Tiny Belt hatchet would only be suitable for scraping and finishing.

Best regards,

Russ
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline Springbuck

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #8 on: November 16, 2014, 11:35:38 am »
I bought a cheap Home Depot hatchet and actually hated it. I now have several axes, and even I made my own and love it.   Long story.  But definitely buy quality.  Almost any older hatchet/axe head is more comparable to better quality brands these days, so flea market axes are a good bet.

But the machete does the real bow work around here.

Offline Badger

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #9 on: November 16, 2014, 11:48:21 am »
  I have the 2 1/2# carving axe and I love it. But my forearm will tire and fatigue while using it because I don't use it often enough to keep that set of muscles conditioned for that specific task. I think a lighter axe might be nice to have also. I say get both, one for your birthday and one for christmas.

Offline Comancheria

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2014, 11:52:30 am »
Badger,

Do you primarily chop while holding the handle or chocke up on it with your fingers on the steel, behind the bit?
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline dwardo

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #11 on: November 16, 2014, 03:26:53 pm »
I prefer the Scandinavian forest axe. Haft is a little longer with little difference in head weight. Makes for much easier two handed use.

Offline huisme

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #12 on: November 16, 2014, 03:41:10 pm »
I never used my cheap hardware store hatchet, it felt clumsy and no matter how nice an edge I gave it it just wasn't comfortable roughing a stave.

For about a week I had access to a grand uncle's handmade axe with a cocobolo/hickory/Osage handle, beautiful piece of work he said he made in his long-ago prime, and that thing made roughing the blank the most enjoyable part of the process for that week.

Now I use a machete, specifically a kukri, and while it doesn't hog wood like that masterpiece it is versatile and I use if for scraping.

Don't pass up an old reliable thing, they're still around becaus they're worthwhile.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline paulsemp

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #13 on: November 16, 2014, 03:53:36 pm »
I have the carpenters hatchet. in my opinion all cheap hatchets are garbage, once you use one from these guys you will never buy anything else. While it was expensive I bought it 15 years ago and I don't think I'll buy another one for the rest of my life. the quality of steel is second to none and hold the edge forever. my band saw broke a few months ago and with this hatchet I'm considering not even get another one my rough out time seems to be the same

Offline Badger

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Re: Which Gransfors Bruk Hatchet?
« Reply #14 on: November 16, 2014, 05:42:09 pm »
  Comancheria, While doing finer work I choke up on it. My forearm blows up like a balloon and gets rock hard after about 20 minutes with it. I tend now to alternate it with other tools. I think most of the fatique sets in while reducing a stave using the outer part of the grip. By the time I get to the finer work my arm is pretty well tired out.