Author Topic: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...  (Read 4806 times)

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Offline arachnid

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Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« on: January 04, 2015, 04:53:58 am »
Hi Guys.

Does arrow grain orientation effect arrow flight?
I`m using dowls as shaft and the only thing I can get is beech.
It`s imposible to find straight grain dowls so I`m just using what
I find, with some good results.
So, does grain orientation importent for arrow flight or it`s just so the arrows be more durable?

One more question- I`ve been trying to make a dowel maker (to make my own shafts)  with no success and I want to try
again. Does anyone know a good build-along for an easy to make dowel maker?

ok... thats the last one- When I`ll make the dowel maker, Does red ceder a good arrow wood? (NOT POC, but the stuff they have in deck stores... very light
wood, red-ish color...). I can get pine with good grain but if that ceder is better, I`ll get it...

Thanks in advance...

Dor

Online Pat B

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #1 on: January 04, 2015, 11:20:13 am »
Dor, grain absolutely does matter when making arrows as far as arrow flight and for safety reasons. The grain lines should be horizontal and the grain "flames" should point forward on the top of the shaft. The sides of the shaft with the grain lines are the stiff sides of the shaft and one of them should be against the bow. The "flames" of the grain should be facing forward and on top so if the shaft breaks on release the sharp fragments will move up and away from your hand.
 Have you looked in the "How To" section about making your own shafts?
 The cedar you are talking about is Western Red Cedar and it will make good arrows but it will be light in physical weight. Poplar is another option for good shafting. Regular hardwood dowels will make good arrows if you pic through the stacks and hand pick the proper shafts.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline JackCrafty

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #2 on: January 04, 2015, 03:04:27 pm »
The only other thing I can add is that you might want break some beech, cedar, or pine dowels on purpose to see how strong they are.  This can look like a waste of time and material but you really don't know how good a shaft is until you've broken one.  :)

I tried looking for a good video on a dowel maker but after watching a bunch of bad ones I remembered why I just buy dowels.   ;)
« Last Edit: January 04, 2015, 04:10:14 pm by jackcrafty »
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Offline arachnid

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #3 on: January 04, 2015, 03:53:11 pm »
Thanks a lot.
Pat, I supose that by "flames" you mean the "V"?
The beech arrows I currently shooting preform pretty good. I did a bare shaft tuning and can get quiet good
shots.

It's realy hard to read the grain on those beech dowels...

Online Pat B

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #4 on: January 04, 2015, 04:49:13 pm »
Yes, the "Vs".   Lightly stain the wood and the grain should show up well.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline arachnid

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #5 on: January 05, 2015, 01:09:56 am »
Pat, I tried to make pine shafts once. Problem was they turned out with a too large diameter (10 mm instead of 8 mm). I used a really straight grain board for that and the shafts came out with straight grain and no V's. So I didn't quiet get your explanetion.

Can you clear that out please?

BTW, I didn't find shaft making instructions in the How-to's. If there is one, can you post a link?

Online Pat B

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #6 on: January 05, 2015, 10:01:51 am »
Check out George Tsoukalas' website. You will find it at the top of the "How To" page. George goes through all aspects of wood bow archery, including arrows and specifically pine shafting.
 If you have grain lines down the sides of the shafts and no "Vs" then you have great arrow making materials. If you do have "Vs" have them on top and pointing forward.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline arachnid

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #7 on: January 05, 2015, 10:21:52 am »
Well, I used the info from George`s site when I first tried to make shafts.

However, I didn`t feel so good yesterday so I took this day off work. I did manege to
build a dowel maker and so far so good- it make 8mm diameter dowel! OH YAH!!!!

So, what`s better for my 40-45lb bows?
Western red ceder or pine (It will be tuned, of course)?
I`m use it for target shooting and stump shooting so I need accuracy...

Online Pat B

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #8 on: January 05, 2015, 10:25:19 am »
The pine would probably be stronger and less brittle than the red cedar but either will work, especially for a lighter bow.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Jim Davis

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #9 on: January 12, 2015, 01:16:35 am »
Actually, red cedar is pretty awful for arrows. It looks wonderful, but it's only half as stiff in bending as POC, only 2/3 as strong and 20% heavier.

Port Orford cedar is the only American cedars well suited for arrow making.

Now for wall hangar arrows, it's hard to  beat.
Jim Davis

Kentucky--formerly Maine

Online Pat B

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #10 on: January 12, 2015, 09:04:09 am »
I believe the red cedar that Arachnid mentioned is western red cedar and not ERC.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Jim Davis

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Re: Grain Orientetion In Arrowes And More...
« Reply #11 on: January 15, 2015, 10:13:20 pm »
Western red cedar is very brittle, only 5/8ths as strong as POC in bending elasticity, a little less than 5/8ths as strong in breaking strength and about 3/4ths the weight.  So, if you shoot 3/8 inch diameter shafts out of a light bow, it could work.
Jim Davis

Kentucky--formerly Maine