Author Topic: Lam oreintation  (Read 2496 times)

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Offline bow101

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Lam oreintation
« on: November 01, 2014, 09:56:12 pm »
I will be building a Maple backed Yew bow.  The maple is quarter sawn having nearly perfect grain like no run off on the edge.
Is it better to have the Yew Quarter sawn, flat sawn or what..?  Does it really make that much difference.    The yew been the belly wood.
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

Offline Pat B

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Re: Lam oreintation
« Reply #1 on: November 01, 2014, 10:51:23 pm »
Generally I prefer edge or bias grin. I think that orientation gives better resistance. Flat grain will also work though.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline bow101

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Re: Lam oreintation
« Reply #2 on: November 02, 2014, 11:55:36 am »
Generally I prefer edge or bias grin. I think that orientation gives better resistance. Flat grain will also work though.

You say edge or bias grain do you mean quarter sawn. ?
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

Offline Pat B

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Re: Lam oreintation
« Reply #3 on: November 02, 2014, 12:51:30 pm »
Quarter sawing is a method of sawing the log that is rarely used anymore. Many sawyers today wouldn't even know how to quarter saw a log.
  Bias grain runs like this (////) and edge grain runs like this (IIII) 
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Springbuck

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Re: Lam oreintation
« Reply #4 on: November 02, 2014, 01:32:55 pm »
  Obviously, the grain on the backing matters most.  On the belly slat, the grain  can do all kinds of things as long as it is mostly straight, and averages out to run the lenght of the stave. It must run more or less straight in both directions: radial grain and growth rings.

 I have had QS pieces where I couldn't see the radial grain well , and two of those bows bows broke because it turned out the grain ran through the slat back to front at too steep an angle. The grain spalted out when flexed very far.  That is hard to describe, but it doesn't fret and fail, a section slips past the other along a grain line like a stack of papers sliding off as you tip a table.  So watch QS stuff.  I would favor it for consistency and nice belly looks, but sometimes on ipe, bulletwood, etc I can't see the grain properly.

I had a piece of jatoba that was bias ringed, and no matter what the bows would look good at glue up, but when bent at all they would twist, almost rolling, and both limbs would do the same thing.  I blamed this on the bias rings, and fixed it by glueing up a tri-lam with the rings oriented first one way, then the other, and it quit twisting.  Then the bow took horrible set and ended up low weight.  So, that last part was likely me.  I don't know if that was really it, but I think so.  I have not had as big a problem with that twist since, and had some GREAT BL that was bias cut and worked amazing.


Offline bow101

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Re: Lam oreintation
« Reply #5 on: November 02, 2014, 04:37:46 pm »
Thanks guys.  Grain running straight.  Bowyers #1 rule.  I was also tossing around the idea, if the belly lam is quarter sawn versus flat sawn it would increase the poundage.  Or is that a myth. ?
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

Offline Pat B

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Re: Lam oreintation
« Reply #6 on: November 02, 2014, 06:13:50 pm »
I do think you get better resistance from the edge or bias grain than you do with flat grain.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline bow101

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Re: Lam oreintation
« Reply #7 on: November 02, 2014, 06:21:30 pm »
I do think you get better resistance from the edge or bias grain than you do with flat grain.

Yes... :)
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

mikekeswick

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Re: Lam oreintation
« Reply #8 on: November 03, 2014, 02:24:33 am »
+1 Springbuck.
Flat sawn is more resistant to twist.