A Hickory Bow

[Shaneisneato]

Started shaping and sanding the overlays down. How is it looking guys?

[mikekeswick]

What weight and drawlength are you aiming for? It's key that you have a plan.
Before bracing the bow you should be pulling your intended draw weight on the long string. The long string should also be tight on the belly when in the nocks.
I use the longstring out to 18 - 20 inch because it allows you to get the tiller almost perfect whilst putting the minimum of stress on it (when it will still have weak/stiff spots).
Once i've got to this stage then it's time to brace it.
The first thing to check as soon as you brace it is the strength of the limbs relative to each other. Your lower limb should be a hair stiffer.
If you aren't going over 60# draw weight then I would narrow the 2 inch section to 1 3/4 now and maybe further once i'd got braced and had an eye on how much set it had taken.. Overly wide limbs end up being thinner than necessary and thinner limbs are harder to tiller than thicker limbs. Althought it's not a massive consideration at this point  thinner limbs also return slower.....

[Shaneisneato]

Here is the bow at a low brace and on the tree with a long string. How is the tiller looking? The angle of the second picture is not straight on, asked the SO to take the picture while I was pulling...what can you do. 
Was wanting to get your all's opinion before I started pulling further with real bow string.

[alwayslookin]

Bending a lot out of the fades. Mid limb on both sides needs more bend imo. I'm still a newb  though so wait for others to chime in

[Shaneisneato]

Bending a lot out of the fades. Mid limb on both sides needs more bend imo. I'm still a newb  though so wait for others to chime in

Yep, Now that I'm looking at it in the pictures I see what you are talking about.

[Sidewinder]

I was thinking same thing about it bending too much out of fades. Mid limb and out. Its looking good though.

[Shaneisneato]

I was thinking same thing about it bending too much out of fades. Mid limb and out. Its looking good though.

So a little scrapping on the mid limbs out? Wish I could put a little back into the area by the fade 

[Springbuck]

  Don't sweat it Shane.  you aren't done yet.  You've done a great job getting a symetrical bend, for one thing.

  So, I mess up a lot of bows through enthusiasm, and have some tricks for you.   

  Grab some masking tape, take a long olook at you last pic and the bow, and wrap some tape around where you don't want any more removal.  To my eye, that is about 1/3 of the limb length (starting at the fades, outward).  Then work that next third of the limb using a systematic wood removal system.  My favorite is where you just scuff it up with the rasp, and then scrape the rasp marks off.  Or, I even sometimes get a dark crayon or piece of charcoal and mark areas I want scraped, and then scrape until that is gone.

 Your next couple of inches of tip movement should come from that middle third, and the rest should stay put.  Then stop and re-evaluate.

[Aaron H]

I couldn't tell you how many times I have wished I could put wood back on a piece I was working on.  Most of the time it works out just fine though, most of the time....

[Shaneisneato]

  Don't sweat it Shane.  you aren't done yet.  You've done a great job getting a symetrical bend, for one thing.

  So, I mess up a lot of bows through enthusiasm, and have some tricks for you.   

  Grab some masking tape, take a long olook at you last pic and the bow, and wrap some tape around where you don't want any more removal.  To my eye, that is about 1/3 of the limb length (starting at the fades, outward).  Then work that next third of the limb using a systematic wood removal system.  My favorite is where you just scuff it up with the rasp, and then scrape the rasp marks off.  Or, I even sometimes get a dark crayon or piece of charcoal and mark areas I want scraped, and then scrape until that is gone.

 Your next couple of inches of tip movement should come from that middle third, and the rest should stay put.  Then stop and re-evaluate.

This sounds like a plan. I have some of those lumber crayons that would be perfect for marking.

[Danzn Bar]

Good advice given......wouldn't touch the fade area.  yea don't worry about not making weight, takes some bows under your belt to hit your weight.  If push comes to shove you could cut it off (pike) a bit.
What does the front profile and un braced profile look like?  You will probably have to take some width off of the tips.
Good job, look'n good.
DBar

[Shaneisneato]

Worked on the areas you guys suggested. Hoping its looking better now and I'm about finished   

[Buckeye Guy]

Yep your about finnished now!
looks so much better don't  it?
you have done a fine job

[Arrowind]

Looking good.  yes the tiller is definitely better.  nice work.

[cdpbrewer]

You're almost there with a fantastic first bow!   The tiller looks pretty good to my eyes (which aren't  ) hence the attached ellipse thing.  A pic of the profile you have now would help.  Do you shoot with three fingers under the arrow?

Maybe a few scrapes on the outer top limb?   Then exercise it and fling some arrows at the draw lenght you're at on the tree to judge how it shoots and to reveal any additional set at any weak areas from the shooting-in.  If the bow seems slow or has a lot of handshock, I'd consider narrowing the limbs- albeit with reduced draw weight.  The string angle is very good so you be able to get more draw lenght if you want.