Starting another one...

[Gaust]

Starting on another one, calling it Hackberry III. I have a little straightening to do, but I'll reduce it some first.  Planning a shorter bow, perhaps 64" ntn, 45# @ 28", and I may try to add some static reflex to the tips.  Though I have a pretty good growth ring on the back, would I need a backing for this one I wonder?

[PEARL DRUMS]

George Id keep it no less than 2" wide if you want to pull 28" with a 64" ntn hackberry. No backing required if its clean now.

[Gaust]

Thanks, Chris.

[SLIMBOB]

I agree with Chris.  2 inches wide seems for me to be the magic number on Hackberry at that length and poundage.  I also prefer to keep my width out past midlimb.  A slight taper only.  You might be able to narrow the width some as you get close to final tiller if you want. 1 7/8 - 1 13/16.

[BarredOwl]

Is your stave bent due to warpage or from a crooked growing tree?  Do you plan to use dry heat or steam to straighten?  The only warped piece of hackberry I have straightened has moved back some towards its warped shape after I tillered and shot it in.  Almost enough to have the string off the side of the handle.  Maybe the more experienced hackberry guys can advise if you might want to go a little past straight to begin with?  Keep us updated on your progress I have several pieces of hackberry to work and am interested to see how this one goes.

[Gaust]

BarredOwl, I had the stave curing in the garage after debarking and sealing the back and ends for ten months.  It was fairly straight when I cut it and warped as it dried. I'll probably try dry heat to straighten it out, and steam it for the statics.  I plan to do the straightening carefully with the heat gun, yes just a little past straight as I slowly clamp it down, probably do one limb at a time.  But first I will get it close dimension-wise, leaving the ends wide till I steam bend those.  I plan to temper the belly after some tillering and do final straightening at that time as well.  I will keep updating my progress, but be patient.  I'm kinda slow with the hatchet.
George 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Dry heat will work fine for flipping George, steam is fine for static tips.

[Gaust]

On static recurves how much thickness tapering is recommended?  Chris, on your build-along, I know you tapered the width, but what about thickness?  If not, where does thickness tapering of the limbs end?  At the start of the static bend?
George

[Gaust]

Progressing slowly, but carefully.  The stave is getting closer to width and thickness but first I've got to straighten it.  I'm using a combination of dry and steam heat.  Presently I've got it clamped down after heating the limbs to reduce the lateral bend along the length.  I steamed out the severe bend at one limb, but now I'm just coaxing it along with my heat gun.  There's a slight twist on one limb that I'll have to do something about before I continue to rasp it down to thickness.  The tips are still wide so I can add the statics later.  But I thought I'd show where I'm at right now.
George

[Gaust]

Another progress pic.  The stave is finally straight. After a number of heating and clamping sessions, using both steam and dry heat, the tips are finally in line with the center of the handle. Next step, after I let it rest a while, will be to put it on my new caul and add some reflex to the entire stave, and then afterwards steam bend the tips.   It's now in floor tiller shape.   It'll be interesting to see if it does stay straight through the tillering process and then after it gets shot in.  All that heat bending I did to it has got to have some effect on this piece of wood.  I've read that it does somewhat weaken the fibers.  This is all new territory to me. 
George

[bubby]

Get at least to full brace before steaming the statics in, I like to get close to 20",fewer surprises that way

[SLIMBOB]

I think it may weaken the fibers some, but not enough to compromise the bow in my experience.  You just end up leaving a wee bit more wood on the thickness to compensate.  Your trick will be in getting all the bends to hold as you reheat it.  It's come a long way.

[Gaust]

On the belly side, the ring lines look normal on one limb.  On the other limb, the rings lines run off to the side a bit.  Normally those ring lines guide me in my thickness tapering.  Should I be concerned about the limb where the ring lines run off?  I can taper it okay, just wondering about the resulting compression strength of that limb.  Or does it matter?
George

[SLIMBOB]

Take set of caliper and check the thickness.  Getting that right will be important, not how it may look, although I will bet that the taper is not even sided to side.  Could be, but check it.

[Gaust]

Will do, SLIMBOB.  Thanks, Bubby.