Rimankyu - my Mini Adventure.

[Tommytinker]

Blackhawk - I'm sure you're right! This is where my inexperienced speaks volumes! But unfortunatly I'm already two far through to change the design, so I'll just cross my fingers and pray. But thank you for the advice.

[PatM]

It's probably important to realize that the bow that is being attempted does have the more gullwing shape.
 While it might make more sense to make a mini-Assyrian style, that's not what the bow in question looks like.
 It looks much more like a tiny Scythian bow.

[Tommytinker]

I then aplied two layers of sinew and let it dry in reflex. I then  spread a thin layer of titebond 3 over the top and covered it with sawdust and let it cure for 4 weeks.

[Tommytinker]

While waiting for the sinew to cure I started work on the quiver/holster.

I started by wet moulding some 4mm veg tanned leather to form the base. Fixing it to a piece of heavy hardwood and fixed on a horn plate to support the back.

I will be fletching the arrows with pheasant flight feathers and using my African grey parots ruby red tail feathers (which she regularly sheds) for the cock feather. Red accents will be a theme for this project.

[mullet]

Eddie, I meant that a carriage bow is a bow for carrying by carriage in broken down form, not using in it as some have suggested.
 The small Japanese bow was meant to be used like a pistol for self defense from some sort of vehicle. Likely while being carried in a litter.
 Two entirely different meanings for carriage.

Gotcha, Pat, definitely not the same bow I'm thinking of.

[Tommytinker]

Here is a snap of it braced. It's pulling 12# @7"

[Drewster]

For someone who claims not to have built many bows, you've certainly done yourself proud with this one.  Nice work!

[lebhuntfish]

Absolutely awesome! How does it shoot?  Where's the money shot! Full draw please!  Patrick

[mikekeswick]

You've inspired me to make another one.
Horn and sinew bows have a different set of rules than wood. You could've had it reflexed so the tips touched and it wouldn't have hurt it at all. Even with a long stringing time.
A full draw picture is what i'm waiting for! Take it's ntn length and divide by 1.6 to get a good idea of the drawlength that it can take.

[burn em up chuck]

      very very cool

              chuck

[Chadwick]

I want to see the arrows! And I want some feathers from your bird! 
It's looking good. Why the sawdust in between?

[Tommytinker]

Full draw picks coming soon. I've had a minor drama with the backing (asthetic only, sinew is holding up fine.) I put alternate layers of CA glue and gold acrylic paint over the sinew, sanding between coats, then glued the snakeskin over the top and bevelled the edges to create a faux gold border.

Unfortunately the layers of acrylic and CA de-laminated. Altough The effect worked well, it just didn't like to bend, so I've re-designed the backing and I'm in the proces of refinishing it, I should be able to get full draw picks by tomorrow.

Chadwick - I've never made arrows, so I'm gonna need to do a fair amount of research before I take the plunge! Any advice is welcome.

The reson for the titebond and sawdust over the sinew is to give me something to sand down into after the sinew cures so I don't damage the sinew, but still get a smooth surface. I might have read this somwhere or I might have dreamed it up. I don't know whether it is considered a viable option, but it works for me.

[Tommytinker]

Chadwick - if you live in the UK I'm happy to stick some feathers in the post for you.

[mikekeswick]

It's fine to sand the sinew layer flat. You can also compress it so it sits flat. As you've found out superglue doesn't like to bend 

[Tommytinker]

Full draw pics as promised. The tiller isn't great I know, doesn't bend at all out of the handle and there's a hinge in the top limb. I'm not going to mess around with it anymore as most of the finishing work is done and I don't think I'm going to get it bending too much more out of the handle. It's currently 15# @8" and spits arrows pretty quick.