Nock Design

[DC]

The pictures below show my nocks in aprox braced and full draw. As I'm drawing the bow the loop slides along the side of the bow making very disconcerting pops and cracks . I'm thinking that the nock should be cut into the side of the bow so the loop exits out of the belly, sort of. What I'm wondering is should the nock allow the string to move back and forth or should the string be more or less captured so that it's a bending movement rather than a sliding one? I'm thinking bending would cause less wear and not make scary noises.

[PatM]

You just need to taper the belly side like a teardrop shape. Shouldn't even have to be told that.   The loops should be completely free in their action with the string pivoting on the top of the loop.
 You can extend the nock groove around the sides but a deep back nock doesn't need side groves.

[mullet]

+1, If you make them that narrow your string should slide. I'd taper the sides back.

[DC]

Is this what you mean?

[Eric Krewson]

I suggest you make side groves on your nocks.

I string my bows to normal brace and mark the string position, then cut the side nocks. They will be perfectly placed at the right angle this way.

 

[Del the cat]

NO! Don't make simple straight side grooves!
Your problem is the overlay is narrower than the belly of the bow so as the string swings upwards along the belly it is rubbing.
Your two pics show all you need to know! You've seen where the string travels!
If you mark with a pencil at brace (like Eric says) and full draw you will see a sort of fan shape where the string rubs, this needs to be relieved.
Those straight grooves are one of my pet hates, as they must cause a nasty bend and chaffing of the string at full draw.
If I'm being fussy I'd say the groove may as well extent out to the tip of the bow, as everything beyond the string is excess weight.
I realise we all do stuff differently, so apologies to those who disagree!
Here's a pic of a horrid Hickory bow before I re-worked it... it shows the fallacy of the string groove, the wood outside the red lines is just dead weight achieving nothing, so why have a narrow groove?

+1 on what Mullet says... that's what I've tried to illustrate in my top two pics. Make the cross section of the tip sort of tear drop shaped with the thin taper on the belly.
Del

[PatM]

The side grooves are unnecessary if you want to narrow the tips and minimize weight.
 Not sure if Eric fans out the groove to allow string travel at full draw. As Del says, that should always be done.
 I've seen a lot of otherwise fine bows with that string cutting trait.

[wizardgoat]

I do what eric does in marking out where the string lies at full brace, but then remove wood on the tip side, so the side groove disappears only leaving a lip where the string sits. The string only needs the overlay groove really

[Knoll]

Thanks for posting, DC.  And for the inputs, guys.  Now gotta redo ALL my nocks!!   

[bow101]

I do what eric does in marking out where the string lies at full brace, but then remove wood on the tip side, so the side groove disappears only leaving a lip where the string sits. The string only needs the overlay groove really

+2  I was doing it the other way but found that the string was bending with a 45 degree side groove.  As long as the string stays on and not slip off.

[Eric Krewson]

Yep, I open up my string grooves on the side to allow "click" free sting movement when coming to full draw. I have a couple bows under my belt that I learned the tricks of the trade on.

[bow101]

Yep, I open up my string grooves on the side to allow "click" free sting movement when coming to full draw. I have a couple bows under my belt that I learned the tricks of the trade on.

I would never argue that point. 

[medicinewheel]

I suggest you make side groves on your nocks.

I string my bows to normal brace and mark the string position, then cut the side nocks. They will be perfectly placed at the right angle this way.

+1 ...and I open them up towards the tip end, nice and smooth and round and no edges at all!