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Author Topic: Cane spine???  (Read 3076 times)

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Offline okie64

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Cane spine???
« on: October 02, 2014, 08:47:45 am »
Im just wandering how many of you guys spine your cane shafts? Ive been working on my first set. I have them straightened and sanded and started spining a few of them. Can they be over spined a little because of the natural taper to the shafts? Most of them Im getting between .40 and .50 deflection in the center which will be a little overspined for most of my bows. Any input will be appreciated.
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Offline osage outlaw

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Re: Cane spine???
« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2014, 11:16:25 am »
I spine mine.  I have been going with 45# arrows for a 50# bow. 
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Offline Pat B

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Re: Cane spine???
« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2014, 12:30:10 pm »
I only spine cane and hardwood shoots to find the stiff side which goes against the bow. I do make arrows long, 30" for my 26" draw. The natural taper does make the arrows more weight tolerant.
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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Cane spine???
« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2014, 03:20:10 pm »
I do like Pat. I have noticed that similar diameters will fly the same. So I just pick them accordingly and end up with arrows that fly well from 45-60# bows.
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Offline okie64

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Re: Cane spine???
« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2014, 04:31:06 pm »
Thanks for the advice fellas. I have a variety of diameters in this batch I'm working on so I'll finish them up and see how they shoot. Are most of you guys using self nocks and what kind of practice points do you prefer?
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Offline Pat B

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Re: Cane spine???
« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2014, 05:12:50 pm »
I use self nocks and put a wrap below it. Also place the last node so when you fletch the feathers are not on a node. I use standard field points. You will have to grind the point taper as pencil sharpener type taper tools don't work so well.
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Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Cane spine???
« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2014, 06:07:51 pm »
I use self nocks. I use standard tips as well, but I do cut my taper in with a taper tool. The only one I found that works every time is the Tru Taper X2 tool. It comes with 5/16, 11/32 and 23/64 adapters.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Danzn Bar

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Re: Cane spine???
« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2014, 07:32:50 pm »
Quote from: PEARL DRUMS on October 02, 2014, 03:20:10 pm
I do like Pat. I have noticed that similar diameters will fly the same. So I just pick them accordingly and end up with arrows that fly well from 45-60# bows.

Chris,Pat
you guys must have better luck or more experience than I do....but, I make lots of arrows and for some reason if I don't mess with the spine, point weight and arrow length, my arrows don't shoot worth a darn. 
Okie,
I spine most all mine  .40 - .50 deflection is 65# - 52#, the best way I have found to reduce spine is to make the shaft longer (for each 1" longer than 28" = 5#lighter).  Take a look at a couple of older posts "reducing spine weight" and "help making arrows" lots of good info there.

I like self nocks and duplex nails for target/field points.  a 16p duplex weights about 125grs after grinding the point.  once these guys are glued in they don't come out.  :) ;)
« Last Edit: October 02, 2014, 07:40:58 pm by Danzn Bar »
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Offline okie64

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Re: Cane spine???
« Reply #8 on: October 02, 2014, 09:46:58 pm »
Thanks for the input fellas. I'll try some glue on
points and some of the duplex nails also to see which i like better.
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gutpile

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Re: Cane spine???
« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2014, 01:34:14 pm »
I cut my cane to 25 inches...and spine from 60 to 70 lbs...then I add a foreshaft of about 6 inches but thats also bottoming out on a node so usually I have about 4 inches sticking out making shafts around 29..my bow is 50 to 55 lbs at 26 which is my draw...and they fly perfectly in the spine range I mentioned...gut
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