Author Topic: Reflex at tip  (Read 7213 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline BigWapiti

  • Member
  • Posts: 273
Re: Reflex at tip
« Reply #30 on: September 16, 2014, 04:56:10 pm »
Well, dang.  Several attempts ended in failure.

Used bacon oil and dry heated the wood - first attempt, got it nice and hot on the belly, but not scorched - hot enough to feel heat through to the back - put it in my caul and let it sit overnight.  Next morning, released it from the caul and it sprung right back to original shape........

Tried it again, this time with more heat (enough to scorch the belly and the bow was very hot to the touch)... put it in the caul, next morning pulled it out to find the back splintered.

I need to check my thinking - if a bow is seasoned and dry, dry heat seems as if counterproductive.  Not enough oils in the wood at this point, is there?  Can someone explain the reasoning behind the concept of dry wood = dry heat / wet wood = wet heat?  Seems as if it should be the opposite.  Just curious.

Thanks.

I'm not giving up on russian olive just yet - starting another, this time a D-bow (staying on the simple side until I'm sure).  Its too perdy of a wood, and seems quite strong.
Mike B.
Central Washington State
"Take a kid hunting, it'll make a WORLD of difference" -me

Offline bradsmith2010

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,187
Re: Reflex at tip
« Reply #31 on: September 16, 2014, 05:50:03 pm »
I agree with Badger,, the full draw profile will show that the limb has reflex,, I usually put the reflexed limb at the top in a bow like this,, so if it is a bit weaker,, it gives the bow a positive tiller(even though it may not appear that way braced) ,, and if some of the reflex bends out in time(and it can),, it will usually still shoot ok,,  I dont like when the bottom limb is weaker,,, sometimes it is prudent to keep the bending and heating to a minimum unless absolutely needed,,and remember you can do a little at a time,,, depending on your skill level,, :)