Author Topic: Heat bending hickory  (Read 2187 times)

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Offline Puckaway

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Heat bending hickory
« on: August 28, 2014, 01:30:56 pm »
I've just attempted to reflex a hickory stave. I used a heat gun with olive oil on a caul I worked up yesterday. I really didn't know how long to apply heat for so I heated until it was too hot to touch and then just feathered the heat on a little longer. I worked from the handle to the tips. Is that right? When should I take it off? When it cools completely?

Offline Buckeye Guy

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Re: Heat bending hickory
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2014, 01:39:44 pm »
That will work!
Guy Dasher
The Marshall Primitive Archery Rendezvous
Primitive Archery Society
Having  fun
To God be the glory !

Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: Heat bending hickory
« Reply #2 on: August 28, 2014, 01:54:01 pm »
Yup.
Guns have triggers. Bicycles have wheels. Trees and bows have wooden limbs.

Offline Puckaway

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Re: Heat bending hickory
« Reply #3 on: August 28, 2014, 01:56:19 pm »
She took it!

Offline BOWMAN53

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Re: Heat bending hickory
« Reply #4 on: August 28, 2014, 02:00:02 pm »
looks perfect, good job

Offline Puckaway

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Re: Heat bending hickory
« Reply #5 on: August 28, 2014, 02:10:38 pm »
Thanks a ton! Now I guess I'll wait a couple of days and start the tiller. Any good build alongs out there for a tillering string? I have one of paracord with the boots on the ends for long string tillering, but the other one I've been using is artificial sinew. I think its 10 strands of the thicker stuff. Its really hard to work with it on the timber hitch end. I have lots of B50. Should I try an 18 strand B50 made the same way or is there a better option. That huge knot always gets in the way and seems to make the string track to one side.