Glue choices for leather grip

[JW_Halverson]

I have finished the bow with polyurathane and normally I would cut out the leather, wet it, stretch it, and sew it on.  I would then use a little toothpick to lift up the edges and squirt a little dab of superglue here and there to make it stay good and tight, along with counting on the shrinking of the leather to do the job.

However, I am doing something a little different where the arrow pass leather padding is integral to the leather of the grip and I do not want the leather to get crusty hard, like what happens with superglue. 

What do you recommend???  I was thinking barge cement since that was often used with leatherwork. The arrow pass is my main concern since it is out there with nothing to stitch it to.  Your thoughts?

[osage outlaw]

I quit gluing them JW.  I stitch them up tight and haven't had a problem with them moving.  When I glued them in place I did the same as you with the superglue.

[JW_Halverson]

With the wetting and stretching, I don't see this grip moving either, but that tab of leather extending up the grip from the grip area is unsupported and needs to be glued down. 

This is a very different style of leather wrap brought on by a very different style of grip than I am used to doing.  Frustrating, but it's opening my head up for new ideas and that has to be good, right?

[PatM]

Torges recommends contact cement (which Barge cement is) for handle wrapping that is form fitting and non hardening.
 Once you stick down the initial edge you can really haul on the rest to pull it all down snug.

[Pat B]

I agree with Pat M, contact cement. Barge is one brand and Weldwood makes it also.

[paulsemp]

I think a little titebond works well. Stays wet long enough to move around and stitch unlike contact cement. Like I said just a little. Don't want it coming out lacing holes. Most time I stitch and dab super glue like others said

[DarkSoul]

I've used normal white wood glue to secure leather handles onto a bow. It doesn't dry as hard as superglue. I'm sure contact cement will work beautifully as well, but I have wood glue at hand for sealing the ends of staves, and I would have to go out and buy contact cement. So I use what I have at hand
I sometimes mix the glue with a little drop of water and put it into a syringe. I use a fat and long hypodermic needle to literally inject the glue underneath a leather handle that is already installed.

[Will H]

I've done a bunch with titebond with good results. My favorite is barge cement though. I think it just works better. Especially at the arrow pass and forming the contours of my pistol grips.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I use a dab of Loc Tite super glue on all the hot spots. Once in a blue moon one will come free a bit, I just tack it back down. I tried a few other ways as mentioned and just made a big flippin' mess, all on my own. Hate gripping........

[Bob Barnes]

I also wet them, stretch them, and stitch them...you can use a glue stick or cheap rubber cement too...even on the wet leather.

[TRACY]

Barge if I have to glue leather. Never had any issues lacing up just a grip.

Tracy

[missilemaster]

High strength double stick tape.

[JW_Halverson]

High strength double stick tape.

That's one I had never considered.  That might be the ticket for that loose floppy arrow pass leather above the handle. 

[beetlebailey1977]

I always use Barge cement for grips and rest.

[chamookman]

I've always used Barge Cement, but like the double sided tape idea. Just wondering how it would stand up the vigors of the pass? Bob