Arrow and draw length

[BrokenArrow]

I have a 28 inch draw or actually 26 1/4 inches because I don't use a 1 3/4 handle but instead a one inch handle so my actual draw is more like 27 1/4.
My arrow is 28 1/4 inches from nock to the end of the arrow not including the point.
This make my arrow 1 inch longer than the bow not including the point.
Is this the standard or best set up or should the arrow be longer?

[JoJoDapyro]

It depends on what you like. If a longer heavier arrow shoots better then shoot that. I tend to go about 1 to 3 inches longer on my arrows. I would think it is a preference thing.

[mullet]

Most of my arrows are in the 30-31" range.

[Pat B]

I cut my arrows 30" for my 26" draw.

[docmann]

I cut a  31" arrow to accommodate my 29" draw. Interestingly, I recently completed a short Comanche horse bow tillered for 25" draw. I eventually cut down short arrows of. 26" to prevent me from over-drawing. However, before that I simply took my longer 31" arrows and applied a small amount of tape at 25" so as to let my left hand know when I reach the required 25" draw length. Amazingly, the longer arrows flew beautifully and grouped reasonably well .
I recommend erring on the longer side. Additionally, if you splinter the arrow tip while applying your hunting points (or practice points) you have plenty of shaft to spare .

[Dharma]

I have a 28" draw but my arrows are 30" to 31" long for pragmatic reasons. Most arrows break right behind the point. I can cut them back, retaper, and install another field point and salvage the arrow with no loss of draw length.

[Pat B]

...but that 1" removal will change the spine a bit.

[Danzn Bar]

...but that 1" removal will change the spine a bit.

I agree with ya Pat,

Hey guys, 
When I'm making a set of arrows for a specific bow, I will make some 3-4" longer than draw length with nocks and start with 100 gr glue on point, no fletching. (Bare Shaft Tuning) Shoot them at 10 yds into some Styrofoam. So the arrow is free to move at will, some target material will "guide" the arrow and give a false indication.  For a right hander....if the arrow hits the target with the nock end to the left the arrow is weak, and I cut 1" off and shoot it again and keep trimming until it hits the target straight.  Then add fletching and go with a 125 gr point and that arrow will be tuned just right for that bow.  Be careful, I have had some so weak in spine that the arrow broke when it hit the target.  I try and start with an arrow close to the spine for the bows draw weight and make them a couple of inches longer (weaker).
If the arrow hits the target with the nock to the right it is strong and I add point weight until it hits straight, up to 200gr point.  Then I think it's to much weight forward and use that arrow for a heavier bow. Changing the length 1" will effect the arrow flight much more than adding 25gr to the point IMO.
It took me many many (a couple of 100) arrows and many shots to figure it out. 
 
Short answer.... there is no "standard" when working with natural materials, it's all in the arrow spine in relationship to the bows draw weight. 
DBar