First hickory bow?

[lebhuntfish]

Well I got to work on my hickory stave that was gifted to me at mojam. I am modelling it after one that Mike Yancey built on YouTube. I kinda got on a role with it and got it all the way down to rough dimensions. But while removing some wood on the belly I caught a splinter around a knot, I'm pretty sure that it will all go away while tiller in but I super glued it anyways.  What do you guys think? Also I would love or put some reflex/deflex in it as well. I may back it with rawhide just to be safe. Not sure though. Any thoughts or ideas are welcome and encouraged please.

The measurements are, 66" long 4"x1" handle with 2" fades to 1.75" wide until the last 6" then tapering to 0.5" tips.  My draw length is 27" maybe 26" but will tiller to 27. Patrick

[Pat B]

Patrick, not much can be done with that run off. IMO unless there is more wood than it looks like. Follow the grain that the splinter is running and see where it goes. It is a swirl around a knot or something. If you can eliminate it then go for it. Your dimensions are good for a good stave. Keep us posted!

[J05H]

In the first pic the back is on the left, and the belly is on the right, correct? If so It looks to be about 3/4" thick at the deepest part of the crack. IMO I'd say the safest bet would be to keep your drawknife away from that area until you clean it up with a farrier's rasp, although I'd probably do like Pat suggested and just follow the grain and see what happens.

[Pappy]

I am pretty sure that is the belly Pat, He should be OK if it is. 
 Pappy

[DarkSoul]

That looks like a fine stave No need for a rawhide backing at all. The back is sound and hickory is plenty strong enough in tension. That tear-out near the knot is probably not a problem. It looks like there is enough thickness left. Just don't use your drawknife any longer.

I do have a suggestion regarding the lay-out. Personally, I think the limbs are too wide near the tips. You have shaped it to "the last 6" then tapering to 0.5" tips". Myself, I would change that to "the last 10" then tapering to 0.5" tips". This will make the bow easier to tiller and faster, since there is less wood near the tips.

[lebhuntfish]

Thanks guy's!  Your a big help to everyone!  I appreciate your input and I feel better about my little split. I planned on just trying to work the limbs down and get it to floor tiller and I think your right about having enough wood. I just needed a little reassurance. Thanks again.

So what do you think about doing a reflex/deflex with this bow? Should I go ahead and get it to floor tiller first?  And see if that splinter will work itself out? Can you use a heat gun to bend hickory with? 

DarkSoul, I think I will go with your recommendation and taper the tips back 10" from the end. Thanks again, Patrick

[Stringman]

I'm not much of a fan of hickory in this climate, so take this for what it's worth. This bow will have a tendency to lose weight and take set in high humidities. To offset that, I would heat in about 4" of reflex over each limb. And definitely reduce the weight near the tips by extending the taper out. JMHO

[Buckeye Guy]

Sounds like you are on the right track
if that splinter is anywhere near the handle I would not try to deflex it , otherwise you have the right idea and a heat gun will do fine for you
Have fun!!

[lebhuntfish]

The splinter is in the crooked area on the top limb. I guess my best thing to do is to get it to floor tiller. Then build my caul and do some bending!!! Patrick