ling cod skin troubles

[wizardgoat]

I glued on some ling cod skins to an osage longbow im working on. I used tite bond 3.
I made sure everything was well degreased.
I read a few times of guys dying the bow back to bring out skin patterns, I used black leather dye. Big mistake I think.
the skins popped off like they were glued on with nothing, and scared the crap out of me.
Ive already scraped away most the dye on the bow, and will re sand the skins. Should I re hydrate them again, or could I glue them on as is?
They are already perfectly formed to my bow.i may just go with rawhide. This bow needs a backing. Very thin ringed osage, and too many pins and knots I dont want to worry about. Cheers

[Pat B]

Did the glue stick to the skins or the wood? What did you degrease with? Both the bow and the skins?

[wizardgoat]

I used dish soap, as well as acetone.
the glue stuck to the skins, barely a smudge on the bow.
seems like the leather dye prevented any bond from happening.
so after I try re sand the bow and skins, skip the dye, could I get away with just gluing the dry skins on?  The skins have already soaked up all that glue,

[Pat B]

You can just glue the dry skin if you get good and complete contact and adhesion.
  Sand the bow's back well, wipe off the sanding dust, size the back with thinned glue then let that dry. Be sure the thinned glue sinks into the wood and not just sitting on top. Once the sizing glue has dried you can add the skin. Also be sure to apply glue to both surfaces to be glued, the skin and the wood.
  When I do sinew backing I scrub the bow's back with Dawn dish soap(the best to use) and rinse it with boiling water. This not only cleans the oils and finger prints off of the wood but also "wets" the wood to accept the moist glue.

[wizardgoat]

Thanks Pat.  Ill do all that . cheers